Where fairy tales were born

In Denmark, and not only in Denmark, this year will be held under the sign of the Great Fairy Tale – Hans Christine Andersen. To his 200th anniversary, our magazine has already published several materials dedicated to the anniversary of the writer, who is not less famous for us than in his homeland. This time our author will tell about how he passed on his footsteps in the Danish capital.

Only 2004, when the Museum Museum opened in Copenhagen, the Danes were first able to see the attic room, where Andersen had ever lived. In terms of its size, she would rather approached the heroes of his books – a cheerful and tin soldier: the area of ​​the room is only eight square meters. Here Andersen settled when he was 22 years old. He chose this house because the building was not far from the Royal Theater, and the young storyteller was a big fan of the scene.

Denmark is associated with fairy tales exclusively due to Andersen, – Naive melancholic, who does not give it to forget about itself on the same street Copenhagen. Andersen painted all Denmark: Monuments, Streets, Memorial Boards. Andersen is the most famous Dane in the world, it is not going anywhere.

our art historian Alexander Benoit, who visited Scandinavia at the beginning of the twentieth century, wrote: "If I have already been able to shapely so Stockholm, what to say about Copenhagen, the city is incomparably more picturesque and curious. Especially as he was when Copenhagen still retained his own starrow cozy charm, the very atmosphere of Andersen’s fairy tales. Every house on narrow curves of streets and on market squares seemed to me some kind of relative "Old house", about which is so poeticly telling my favorite writer, and the rooms were mandatedly flashing their windows, where there are porcelain shepherds and a pipeline on the fireplace, and "The Steadfast Tin Soldier" Sighs on the ballerina".

Rows from the Andersen fairy tale, where it is said about "dog with eyes like a round tower", familiar to everyone: his fairy tales know the whole world. So from the observation deck on the top of the most round tower, which is preserved to this day, is perfectly visible Copenhagen. Spacious parks and labyrinths of close, cobbled curls, green copper monuments and squares, similar to theatrical scenery, gracefully and abolished on the coast of Eresund Strait. Despite the arrays of modern buildings that resemble huge plates made of glass and concrete, in the charming silhouette of the city, there is still much from the beautiful antique – pointed spiers of cathedrals and bells, crowned with fancy flora, high chimneys, narrow tiled roofs.

Continuing the tour of Andersen places, it is necessary to see Nyhavn. Nyuhavn’s channel (New port) was a breakthrough in 1671 to revive the trade activities of the Copenhagen Center and facilitate the access of goods. With the construction of the channel, ships could rise to the new Royal Square (KNGENS NYTORV). Built along the canal of the house, painted in yellow, became a symbol of the city. So the unique appearance of the Nyhavn quarter was created, in the northern part of which houses 250 years ago were preserved. The water reflects their facades of red, yellow, blue, they create a harmonious and constantly changing unity with old wooden ships, frozen along the shore of the canal.

On the first floor of these typical port houses open bars. For several centuries, this was the place of sailors’ fun, here they drank firmly and happened, fought. Nowadays in Nyuhavna, everything is calm, although in the evening there are crowded. During the day it is nice to sit on the outdoor terrace and look at the old sailboats, standing on anchor in the canal. They watched Andersen, who has lived in the house for many years on Nyuhavn Street.

By moving from the native city of Odense to the Danish capital, Andersen did not lose "Hunt for change places". Another house has been preserved in Nyuhavna, on which there is also a sign that tells that the famous storyteller lived here.

But the confectionery La Glace: it is founded in 1870, and every month a special pie is baked here, calling him the name of some fairy tale Andersen, and the cake 13 is the name of the storyter. Another Andersen place is, oddly enough, the Museum of Industrial Art. Through his grille a student from "Magic Kalosh" I slept my head, and back got out, only once again fading the buzz. This grille has so far. Who knows, maybe there are such a button somewhere.

Now in Copenhagen two monuments Andersen. One – in the Royal Garden, the other – in the center of the capital, not far from the Town Hall, at the most honorable place. According to the project, the child was kept behind the feet of one of these bronze talents, but Andersen, having learned about it (the sculpture was done in his life), got angry: "My fairy tales are exactly the same degree for adults, in what kind of children!" – And the girl from the knees was removed.

Not far from the Town Hall – Park Tivoli, a real fabulous "Child’s world". Tivoli has its own guards made up of 100 children and young men at the age of 9 – 16 years. Late in the evening under the sounds of the oven orchestra Young Guardsmen "bypass owners" Shortly before the shot of a gun, hearing on the closure of the park.

Tivoli Park is limited to an area of ​​urban town hall and the Central Station. This is one of the oldest parks of the world, and it is quite called "Old garden". Tivoli was opened in 1843. At that time, the park was outside the city, near the fortress walls. Danish traveler and entrepreneur Georg Carstensen during his trips to Paris and New York saw the amusement parks there, and he really liked. He asked for permission from the Copenhagen authorities to create a similar park in the city, but received a refusal. The authorities of the city feared that the rides could affect "Heated minds" Visitors Park.

Ultimately, Carstensen has achieved an audience from King Christian VIII and tried to prove that tivoli, on the contrary, will help people forget about politics. It is not known how convinced the king these arguments. Most likely, he tried common sense, and the king considered that in Copenhagen, where so few opportunities had fun, such a park would have to be. Anyway, Carstensen built tivoli, which had a huge success in the residents of Copenhagen.

Andersen participated in the opening of Tivoli, and one of the amusement parks, "Chinese bazaar", He filed the idea of ​​a fairy tale about the nightingale and the Chinese emperor. Now this attraction is no longer there, but the tale remains. Tivoli and today you can feel the spirit of the nineteenth century: fabulous tin soldiers are sold here. Andersen, by the way, did not like the park at all.

Interestingly, the same opinion about Tivoli was Alexander Benoit. "Unfortunately, in Copenhagen, the last evening left again on something, from which I would defuse you, – recalled the our author. – How could a non-counseled part of the company refuse to visit the famous Garden Tivoli? Having rolled after dinner in the strollers in the nearest neighborhoods of the capital of Denmark, we went to this entertainment institution, and there they were stirred by some drinks, listening to completely uninteresting musical numbers and glancing on some acrobats. Stood soft, gentle evening. "

From the Andersen Tivoli today, there is little that has been preserved, – after all, during its existence, he has repeatedly rebuilt. So, the two oldest buildings (the main entrance and the Pantomime Pavilion) are dating in 1874. From the initial project to the present, only the lake has been preserved, diverted on the site of old fortification facilities. Both for tourists and for residents of Copenhagen, tivoli favorite place walks and meetings, with a rich selection of restaurants, cafes, game institutions and scenic sites designed for both children and adults. At any time of the year, the park’s parquets are decorated with numerous flower beds and fountains forming an ensemble, full of beauty and harmony.

Military orchestra Tivoli dressed in red and white uniform, colors of the national flag. Caps of bearish skins on the heads of musicians – an exact copy of those who wear the royal guards of amalienissions, — "Resistant tin soldiers".

As a park of attractions tivoli can not offer to visitors. Of course there are all sorts of "hellish" the mechanisms that raise us are thrown down, rotate and turn over the heart freezing. But their little. Most attractions, such as our slides or a large wheel of views, are wonderful by their respectable age, and not by technical perfection. Tivoli is primarily a garden where it is nice to walk, and in the evening to listen to a concert or see the performance or fireworks. And all this – in a unique atmosphere of a blooming garden; In the evening, it is illuminated by more than a thousand electric lamps.

In the evening, tivoli was enveloped by a special romantic charm. Numerous colored lights are ignited, they illuminate Chinese pavilions and flew into the mirror surface of the lake. Around the stage platforms and halls are lured on theatrical performances, concerts, variety, circus programs.

The repertoire of the theater of the pantomime includes ballets, pantomimes and "Comedy del Arte" with classic characters: Harlequino, Colombina and Piero, who love children. Usually after each performance of a silent theater, children turn to it: "Piero, say something!" Their request is performed.

Copenhagen is really a fabulous city. What are at least the names of the streets, squares, houses and districts: the new Royal Square is the most on which once a mute witch was saved from death of her brothers who turned into swans. Marble Church, Nyukhavn – New Harbor – with toy multicolored houses reflected in swinging waves, Palace Amalienborg – the official residence of the Danish kings. Even the royal family looks very fabulously: they say, the crowns married Hong Kong Beauty and drives the car. And the queen Margret II has a dachshund with a fabulous name Baltasar. About parliament also tell a lot of fairy tales: for example, simple Danes can come to a meeting of the parliament and listen to what we are talking about.

In Copenhagen everywhere you feel the proximity of the sea. It is reminded by pulling beeps of steamboats, coming from the port of Frikhavn, unexpected gusts of the study wind, which sometimes reaches such a force that the lamppost poles are buzzing, the wires of the power lines are going to the ground of the tops of the trees, and the drivers are tightly compressed the steering wheel to keep the car on the road. The name of the city is connected with the sea: "Trading harbor".

The breath of the sea is especially felt on the Langelinka Embankment ("Long straight line" – LANGELINIE), where the berths have huge marine ferries and dry cargo. The port of the port annually takes over 200 ships. But here the prose of life intertwined with a fairy tale.

Where fairy tales were born

Walking on Langelinka in the northern direction, you can see the impressive size of the fountain, the largest in Copenhagen. Fountain created in 1908. Anders Bunngor, who used a sculptural group as the main element of the decor on the topic of northern mythology. Indeed, there is a tale of the Swedish King of Gyulf, who promised the goddess of the fertility of the Gephion, that he will give her all the lands that she can plow in one day. Then the gephion turned his four sons into bulls and plowed the island of Zealand (which she pulled off from Sweden), reaching the Lake Marsat, west of Stockholm.

Many capitals have their own symbol. London is a Tower, Paris – Eiffel Tower, Rome – Colosseum. He is also Copenhagen. True, HIP "business card", maybe less impressive than the famous creation of ancient Roman architects. But no Dane imagines its capital without this modest monument – mermaids.

In langelinie waterfront at the entrance to Copenhagen from the sea, it is the most famous sculpture in Denmark – The Little Mermaid. It was created in 1913. sculptor Edvard Eriksen in honor of Andersen’s fairy tale character, which tells the tragic story of the little mermaid. Her sculpture of bronze became world famous emblem of Copenhagen and Denmark. Graceful figure mounted on a basalt boulder a meter away from the waterfront langelinie.

This monument was erected here August 13, 1913. Mermaid was the heroine of Andersen’s fairy tales, written in 1837, the youngest of six daughters of the Sea King, "the most beautiful of them, the delicate and transparent, like a rose petal, with deep blue as the sea, eyes". According to legend, when she was 15 years old, she saved the prince shipwrecked, and to love him. But her pure heart did not allow her to steal it from the bride. And since she is still waiting for his return, and love makes her immortal soul.

In the history of the creation of this masterpiece there are typical motifs Anderson. The fact that the bronze statue was erected not only in honor of the heroine of Andersen’s fairy tales, as Juliet Price (Ellen Preece), the prima ballerina of the Danish Royal Ballet. Admire its Carl Jacobsen, founder of Carlsberg breweries, commissioned the sculptor Edvard Erichsen make a monument in the form of a mermaid dancer still in her lifetime. As the dancer refused to pose, Eriksen modeled the sculpture with his wife, thereby causing a heated debate about the similarities statue of Juliet Price.

But be that as it may, the secret of well-deserved success of sculpture by Edward Eriksen undoubtedly lies in a deeply lyrical and delicate appearance of the little mermaid. Whereas the kidnappers, who have repeatedly decapitated sculpture, a special delicacy not differ. So mermaid head is "clone".

Over 70 years, this bronze mermaid awaits her prince, staring at the mouth of the Copenhagen harbor. On the day of his seventieth birthday, she was decorated with wreaths and necklaces of red and white flowers. The brass orchestras played, the representative of the Danish government and the mayor of Copenhagen spoke speeches.

Little Mermaid has become a symbol of Copenhagen due to "beer king" Karl Jacobsen. But he could not be harmony even after the drawer "Carlsberg", what will be held decades and his "Beer colleagues" – "New Danish", "Decorate" Copenhagen "masterpiece" To your taste. Now in the northern part of Copenhagen rises a giant bottle. From here begins the quarters with enterprises of the Danish beer concern "Tiborg", which makes its products in more than 100 countries around the world. The scale of the concern is so great that in Copenhagen he got his own harbor and in the early 1970s staged a bottle with a label as a monument.

Story about Andersen Copenhagen will be incomplete if you do not mention urban pipelines. In Denmark, approximately 46 thousand Hans, 36 thousand Christians and 173 thousand Andersenov. As well as one queen. One crownprints and another 5413390 people. Each of which knows that inks are able to talk, Norwegian trolls come to Danmark, and the carpist are the most beautiful profession in the world.

Over the past two hundred years, their appearance has changed little. They are dressed in black overalls, hands and faces pinched soot, but the heads are still crowned with cylinders. This "Privilege" They gave them at the end of the XVIII century King Christian VII. The cylinder is now used instead of a bag. It stores every thing – pencils, tubes, tobacco and even convolios with breakfast.

In total in Copenhagen about fifty masters of an ancient profession. Their working day begins early. At four o’clock in the morning – by this time, chimneys have time to cool – on deserted urban streets you can already meet pipes riding bicycles loaded with ropes, wire and metal brushes of all kinds of shapes and sizes. They have a lot of work – every year they clean up to 470000 chimneys. By the way, to become a pipeline, it is necessary to complete a special vocational school in the Copenhagen Institute of Technology.

. Having completed bypassing Andersen Copenhagen, back to "Old garden". Big Holiday Tivoli ends always with the first blow of the clock at midnight by a giant fireworks highlighting the entire park. And Bronze Andersen, sacrifting on the chair near Tivoli, looks at the game of lights thoughtfully: "I am an old storyteller, I know a lot of fairy tales. "

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