Where are you, Paris Bohemia?
The crowds of tourists roam the Montmartra, trying to meet the ghosts Pablo Picasso and Amedeo Modigliani, Edith Piaf and George Brassense. But stumble upon each other. Japanese on Americans, and Germans on Italians, ours in our.
The myth of Paris Bohemia is very strong: there are decades, and people living in different countries can all believe that the great symbols of French culture have long left Montmartre. Only their images ran to tourists. Tourists return home, confident in the fact that they were involved in the mantowing, wondrous, strange life of those times when Picasso went to bed, did not have anyway, but "Pivobysk", Piaf, just started to dream of glory "Montmartra Solovya".
Should they disappoint them? Probably, not.
First of all, because that the place is actually very beautiful. From the terrace Sacre-Ker offers a magnificent view of Paris. In clear weather the whole city like a palm. Montmartra still persists a character that distinguishes it from all other districts of Paris. However, all Paris "Arrondismans" (districts) different. Montmartre hill until 1860 did not enter the limits of the French capital, it was a separate village. And the village atmosphere still can be felt in small streets and rear courtyards where tourists will rarely become rare. On the street of three brothers, Norsen, Lepic, in deep courtyards "VILL" (in Paris "Villas" It is not called at all the birth of rich, but closed yards, where several houses come out). So far, it is sometimes possible to see the sorrows and grass, breaking between stones of blocks. But the non-parity is unlikely to know these places. And the real Montmarters, "Montmartrois", left a little. I am proud that I "Montmartrua", still my great-grandfather, leaving overhead, kept Abbess on the street "Cafe-Charbon", Where I traded alcohol, wine and coal for tin stoves of local residents. Perhaps there was sometimes spanish holodranets Picasso drinking his absinthe. I am ready to believe my grandfather, who thought that Montmarters had another accent, than other Parisians. But I now left "Hill" And settled in another "Arrontisman", away from hord tourists.
Bohemia, poor artists and poets settled at the beginning of the century on Montmartre for a simple reason: the housing was very cheap there. But and what it was housing! Famous house "Bato Lavar" (ship, "Bateau", It was called due to a reasonable appearance) on the Emil-Goodo Square, which has long been demolished, was a real falcline. Drops walls, toilets and water in the yard, and about shower and speech did not go. His inhabitants, now inscribed in the golden pages of the history of literature and art, could not always pay for such a dwelling. And when they were going to go better, they went down with "Hill" and sought themselves places inquest. By the way, after the revolution in Russia, the beggars of emigrants also settled on Montmartre. For example, Caucasians from the so-called "Wild Division". At the beginning of the 20s, they staged a wild massacre with a local shpana, immigrants from Corsica: someone from Corsicans offended "our". Old-timers "Hill" still remember this six-year-old story.
Now it is "Museum of Montmartra", There are decorative "Republique de Montmartre" with his president and government. Anyone wishing for a completely reasonable amount can get paper with impressive seals certifying that he is her citizen.
On Square TERTR Hundreds of Members "Association of artists Montmartre" Sell tourists pictures with landscapes, naked in nature, all kinds of souvenirs, draw portraits and cartoons. There are such places in all big cities. If you compare with Moscow, then the terror is Paris Arbat. "Ah Montmartre, Mon Montmartre, T’es Ma Patrie. " might sing in Okudzhavsky "Montmartrua". But, as I understand it, the true Arbatsers in Moscow are less and less. And on "Hill" It is already difficult to find his offacarious resident. He became too expensive and almost flooded visitors.
In the round-the-clock restaurants around the Terrter Square are preparing food, which the Parisant will not be. Legendary cabaret "Lapin Agile" ("Lucky rabbit") Long ago, it became an attraction for non-sensing visitors. Double Edith Piaf without end pulls "Padam Padam", The floresman turns the drawer handle, and inserted inside the tape recorder plays dance music of the 20s.
But walk late at night or early in the morning along the streets stairs "Hill", admire the local amazing sky still worth. And look into small wine shops and bakery on abbess or lepik. And go down to the Pigal on the narrow and very cool street Germain Pilon, where the elderly transvestites are torn on the walls, talking with neighbors about tax issues. There the atmosphere of the old Montmartre is still feeling.
Maybe he will resurrect. The last attempt to return the Montmarter the former image of the cultural boiler was taken in the early 90s, when the city authorities were given for three years before demolition gave young artists, musicians, designers and stylists a huge complex of hospital Bretono near the northern slope of the hill. "Efemerous Hospital" – So it was named this artistic anthill – Burled with mad energy. The most fashionable concerts took place here, young fashion designers showed crazy clothes, young artists came up with something unprecedented. But then the bulldozers came, and soon Montmartre will decorate another island of expensive residential buildings.
A quarter of a century ago, Bohemia reached for the Seine, on the right bank, where construction began in Bobur "Pompidou Center", of this lover of contemporary art. Where in those days across abandoned streets on ropes, the artists, writers and other concomitant brethren began to justify. Kenkampua Streets and Saint-Martin, adjacent to Saint-Denis, well-known with all their priests selling love, turned into Mecca of lovers of cultural oddities. Girls are still there, some galleries and trendy cafes – too. But the square in front of Bobur is buzzing from tourist marriage, and apartments in vintage houses are rebuilt in a superior style rich people.
Then Bohemia retreated in "Swamp" (district "Marais"), but soon the city authorities began a powerful restoration, the rental price jumped, Fran-Bourgeois and Tampl streets shone showcases with clothing from fashionable couture and utensils of the work of postmodern designers. I had to look for new gibbons. That is, moving further to the east, towards the area of Bastille. The area is funny. Since the XVIII century, furniture makers settled here. Until now, Fobur-Saint Antoine Street is entirely occupied by furniture stores, and the factory, where the cabinets and chairs were made by the Dedovsky recipes, were reappeared by the near-the-artistic public and redished under housing, workshops, editors and "Boites" – Music and entertainment establishments. Grand Holidays were arranged in basements or courtyards – words "Rave" then there still did not exist. In bars techno-music and rap mixed with "Paradise" – Arabic "Rock and Roll" and "zuk" – Music Antille Islands. But Bastilly by the mid-90s fell and lost her bohemian virginity, they began to pull out here "Stranch", where "Bastiltsy" watched contemptuously as a true Parisian looks at any nonprameanin.
In a word, wherever Bohemia sat down, there will soon ride predatory views of real estate traders. The French capital turns into a city for a secured and solid public. Material artistic nomads are suburbs, but Parisian "Branche", "Connected" (so calls himself Paris "Bohemia") Does not think of yourself away from the city center.
However, the myth of God himself is gradually dispelled. Now few people believe in brilliant losers and poor poets. If you are a genius – prove it with immediate success.
But, probably, you should not disappoint guests of Paris. Let, making his way through the greatness of the Sutwoda on the TERTR Square, they continue to think that this is the Paris Bogren life.
