Time to live and travel time. Chapter 14
Rishikesh — Gates in Himalayas, World Capital Yoga. The place where the Holy Gang River comes out of mountain gorges. This city of Oveyan is glory Beatles and the wisdom of great spiritual teachers of India.
My impressions of India flowed with an endless stream. If yesterday I was still in Bodhgae, I left Varanasi in the morning, and now I am looking for my bus from Delhi, who will be lucky in Rishikesh. Hours at 7 pm I will be in place, but for now you need to get a busy bus.
I definitely fell in love with the bus trips, for me it is the best means of movement in India. This does not mean that they must all come to the soul, quite the opposite, but it suits me.
So, I took a seat at the window in an old air-conditioned bus, bought water and a couple of magazines. I got to spend sitting 6—7 hours and therefore it was necessary to take ourselves something, because I didn’t want to sleep at all. Energy beat through the edge. I really wanted to get to Rishikesh.
A small guy was sitting with me, and through a row of his mom with my daughter. He ate all the way chips and drank cola. I was all thinking how many people would fit while he does not fit into the toilet. But no, he sat calmly, occasionally, and looking at me, trying to understand what I was busy. At the stop, Mom bought him a new part of the food and he continued to eat the rest of the way. Large, probably grows, although he is still small and all time will allocate all the extensions in the form of fat.
I let my father’s favorite playlist in the player, when it was completely dark and we rolled at dusk. The mosquitoes and midges began to fly in open windows, I had to throw a hood.
In the cabin, snoring and whisper saw, it seemed that we were not moving more, but were in a spacious and dark place where people are preparing to sleep.
We still just went to Haridwar, which is 25 km from Rishikes, which means that it remained for about an hour.
I also wanted to fall asleep, but I did not give myself such a chance, not now, instead, I cheered with a map in order to learn the road to my guesthouse in advance.
And in the hour of the way we are a light point in Rishikesh. At the central station dark and empty. Last minute, the area is flooded by Porters and Motors, sellers and meetings.
I call for one driver and we negotiate about the board — deal!
His Ricksha is 100 meters from the station and we have to cross the entire area and lively highway in almost the dark. For some reason it is cold, probably clone in sleep and a heavy backpack pulls my striking after the bus shoulders. Everything flows like a slow motion.
It’s very different here than in Delhi. Much calmer. I like it.
We slowly touch it anywhere. The driver snaps the cigarette and spits onto the ground a long-haired pan. Minutes after twenty he landing me at the crossroads. I’m trying to join and figure out which way to move, where I will live?
Marking for about five minutes in the dark, I saw a policeman who had decided to inform how to go through the address I needed. He reluctantly poked on his left and turned away. It turned out that I needed to turn in the alley, where in the courtyards I found my guest.
Lasting for 3 hours to the settlement, it turned out that my place had already given to another. I did not have a conflict to conflict and it was decided that I spent in any free room or bed, and I’ll deal in the morning. The owners were very welcoming and apologized to me a hundred times, but there was no problem, I always admit that something could happen, especially in India.
Throwing out things on the bed, I went out to search for food, but bypassing everything around, I didn’t find anything but a stall with fruit, but it was enough. Now sleep, in the morning with the first rays of the sun meeting the dawn on Ganges.
The morning is wiser than the evening!
At night, I’m so frozen in my room, which only dreamed quickly to go into the air, in the sun. I chose a long time, where I will live in Rishikesh, but only I realized that I was lucky with a place, despite the misunderstandings of the first evening.
Stayed in the city turned out to be near the river and the suspension bridge Lakshman Julu, suspended through her — One of the main attractions of Rishikesh. The bridge is closer to the mountains than to the city itself. There, however, below the flow, there is his twin brother — Ram Julia.
I lived right on the main road connecting the central part of the city with the Lakshman Julian area. Here in the morning there is always such dust that you want to quickly reach the turn, where the descent to the bridge itself begins.
This descent runs along a small road, along which, then here, there are shopping shops. Here and there are closed on any way and the syllable and all the best goods in the city, just come in — Quality they guarantee. Although it was, I will not argue. It is even fun.
So far you go on a narrow path in the back of the Motorikshi and rush past you with mad speed.
New day, new challenge. The city has already woke up and I have with him. I almost reached the bridge Lakshman Juli, as the human pillar of saw ahead. To the question of what is happening, no one could answer me, so I decided to make your way further.
On the approach, I saw a bunch of wires, generators and a light apparatus and immediately understood that they were removed here, the most that neither is, Indian cinema. What was my surprise when I saw that the bridge was clogged with the batchers from the extras, degraded with the colors of Holi, yes, they removed the episode about the celebration of holi on the bridge.
Now they had a break before shooting the final double and I decided to squeeze them, and still go over the bridge on the opposite side of the city before they start shooting.
Then I looked at those who remove this double from the roof of the Tryambakeshvar temple. I heard these joyful cries of fighter actors. It was seen how they sprinkle with each other with a colored powder and I presented for a moment that I am again in the center of Holi’s holiday.
Then I walked downstream Ganges and thought that I want to swim in him. Having reached the bridge Ram Jul, I found a small beach and surprisingly the crowd of the Hindus climbed into the water. Water was dairy and very cold, but so pleasant that I did not want to get out. I washed, finally, with myself the burden of the past and could quietly think about the present and the future.
But I still have some connection with the past, the truth is not with my past, and with the past of the city of Rishikesh. Once upon a time, Beatles themselves came here to Ashram to Maharishi, and a little later in these edges was also located a young Steve Jobs. I really wanted to see these places, so I headed there.
It’s nice to visit the place that webly fame Beatles. Although I calmly treat them and to their success, but it is impossible to refuse this ashrama. Place where their entire fate turned into another channel. The place where John realized that it was the beginning of the end. After that, simply can not be taken and staying the same. This is the place of power.
I really wanted to return to this Ashram again and again, I wanted to take more energy from there. I also wanted to solve all the riddles that were preserved here since. On the Internet a lot walks information about the history of the formation of ashram and its fall. There are all sorts of speculation and rumors about Maharishi.
In general, you just think how he should have been attractive, so that the BEATLES BEATLES itself was decided on a similar journey to these edges. After all, in the distant 1968, here by and large there was a wilderness and a small settlement, which was commissioned during the prosperity of Ashrama.
But only one worried me. I am in such a place and is simply obliged to sit somewhere, turn on my author’s collection Beatles, throw my head to the sky and fly out of this world for several hours.
I rose to the 5th floor of one of the two main buildings, went to the balcony, stuck a backpack on the ground and lay down on my back, threw my hands behind my head and rushed a look into the blue sky.
From the headphones drilled the song Dear Prudence Authority of Lennon from White Album.
By the way, as far as I know, John wrote this song here in this ashram, and that Prudens and her house really existed. Yes, the very house of Prudens is here in the territory — What and says a memorable plate.
I could see him from the roof, where I was lying and sang the words of John:
«THE SUN IS UP, THE SKY IS BLUE.
IT’S Beautiful and So Are You.
DEAR PRUDENCE, WON’T You Come Out to Play?»
Then my ears sounded with Tomorrow Never KNOWS, psychedelic effects even further giving me from reality — Sounds flowed, clouds floated across the sky, my eyes began to close smoothly.
Not noticing time, I lay and plunged even deeper into myself. I was completely alone on that roof. Around neither the soul and only the wind sometimes touched me for the hair and face.
«Turn Off Your Mind,
RELAX AND FLOAT DOWN STREAM,
IT IS Not Dying, IT IS NOT DYING.
LAY DOWN ALL THOUGHTS, SURRENDER TO THE VOID,
IT IS SHINING, IT IS SHINING».
I felt happiness and calm. I felt as if I am at home and everything that surrounds me was well acquainted. As if I was here. No, it’s not a feeling deja, but something more subtle.
If I once need to imagine such a place where I was happy, then I will definitely think about Rishikesh and Ashra Beatles.
Experienced feelings over time only intensified, I wanted to stay there for night meditation, but I did not prepare for it in advance, so I decided to do it another time.
Meanwhile, John sings that there is one answer to everything in this world and this answer — love:
«THERE’S Nothing You Can Know That Isn’T Known
Nothing You Can See That Isn’T Shown
No Where You Can Be That Isn’T WHERE You’RE MEANT TO BE
ALL YOU NEED IS LOVE
ALL YOU NEED IS LOVE
ALL YOU NEED IS LOVE, LOVE
LOVE IS ALL YOU NEED.»
I remembered one story, just about love, and at first glance. We are talking about George Harrison and his love for Indian music and, in particular, to Sitar.
On the filming of the film «Help!» There was such a first acquaintance with the Indian culture, where in the plot there was a scene in which musicians from India fulfill music on ethnic instruments. In the breaks between the filming, George took Sitar, belonging to those musicians and tried to play it. Subsequently, he will decide to study this tool with a mentor to master it perfectly.
As we know now, George was the first one who offered to use ethnic tools in Beatles records. For example, in the song of the 1965th issue of Norwegian Wood, the main melody on the sutyr is very beautifully origined. She became the world’s first Western rock composition, where this tool sounded.
Beatles have more than once experimented with unusual tools, and George Harrison went on and released the first solo album «Wonderwall Music», which can be attributed to style closer to Indian music than Rock’n Roll.
Love George to Indian culture and music began to expand since. He began to study deeply all that was connected with this, including philosophy and religion.
Later he will meet Ravi Shankar, the Great Indian Sitarist, who will be his teacher of the game on this incredible tool.
And now almost 50 years later, I’m lying on the roof in Rishikesh and wonder what they felt «Beatles», When came here in 1968?» And why everything ended so fast?!
There is a very strong relationship between philosophy, religion and Indian music. Beatles at that moment their careers were in finding the highest sense of existence and, that obviously, their way would lead them here. It would have happened sooner or later.
Next logich will tell you more about classical Indian music and its meaning for world culture.
Anyway, the origins of the Indian musical tradition are associated with the Vedas and religious rituals of Hinduism.
Classic music school — This is a complex and diverse system affecting the external and inner world, through the treatises from Samavestan (Rigveda) and musical works, the so-called, Rag.
Tool setting is made on the basis of a complex system of tones and steps that differ significantly, from the west adopted in the West,. This allows you to saturate sound gamut with new sounds and notes.
After many centuries, Indian music continues to keep these traditions and is still part of the sacred life of almost every Indian.
If we talk about popular Indian music, it is significantly inferior to a difficult ragam, since it has a slope on the mass listener and is significantly simplified by the sound.
In one of the religious directions of India, such as sufism, there is a very capacious and accurate definition of the term «music» and how it can influence the person: «Music in them is a way to bring themselves to the state of the divine delight, the way to refuse duality, approaching God, touching him, loss „I am“».
I have nothing to add here. Music is able to have a beneficial effect on man and his soul.
Under the sounds of Beatles and Indian Rag in the performance of Ravi Shankara passed my days in India, and visiting Ashrama Beatles became a special revelation for me.
I, as if, re-reborn there, and after the next time, I, finally, was clear. Ashram Beatles — Site of amazing energy and harmony. The place where my restless mind got into place and stopped getting me. I merged with space under the sounds of music, which sounds here in every part of the space.
In the days of the ancient departments around the city, ascetics and wise men. They were engaged in spiritual practitioners here and along the ganggie. In the river, they performed ablutions, clarification rites, soapped hair and thus freed their consciousness from desires and worldly doom.
Not far in the caves meditated the great sage of Washword. He is known that his instructions helped God’s frame to comprehend the highest truth. To us reached his treatises called «Yoga Washashtha».
It is thanks to these sages, the city of Rishikesh received its name. «Rishi» On Sanskrit means «sage», «Kesh» — the hair they immersed in the holy water ganggie before making practices.
Having finished with the tourist part, the remaining time I went to the tracks in the mountains and bought in mountain waterfalls. Just sat and contemplated a panorama of the city from above. I wanted to capture the forever in my memory these places maybe I can never come back here, but inside me they will always live.
Memories — that’s all that stays with us until the end of life. They define a lot at that last moment. If we have more good with us, then we will conclude that life has passed well and we are all satisfied, and if more bad memories, then life has happened not very successful and it’s too late to change something.
Need to be like a movie heroes «Train to Darjeling» and have time to jump into the last car leaving the train life so as not to regret.
I came this thought when I went down the stairs in the evening to buy myself a meal, and in the end it remained in a guesthouse in a common living room where many people gathered. Together with the host gest and his son here were all-all guests who lived here now. I also stayed because I could not miss such as watching a movie about India, being in India.
Judging by the faces, the film liked all the gathered people. I though I knew the plot, but looked as if for the first time. In such an atmosphere, everything is perceived quite differently. Here, the heroes of the film from the cell fled Cobra, but they abandoned them from the train for violated all the unthinkable rules than the conductor-Sikha. They sit somewhere in the desert, they are desperate — The trip was completely bad, breaking all their plans.
Not knowing what to do next they give up and decide that in the morning they fly home to the usual life, and here they were a foreign body, reality rejected them. Returning not because they were a foreign link, but because they themselves could not accept the course of life: the accident and injury of one brothers — senior; The birth of the first child and the problem in the family in the other — average; parting with the former-former girlfriend from the third — Junior. They were thoughts anywhere, but not here.
And here it starts the infancy of life, she took the control helper into his hands, began to lead them — She was tired of giving them signs and decided to teach the lessons whose consequences they will be remembered and fought in their skins. Withstand these trials brothers, finally, ran and became one whole. Now they saw a common goal, she opened them. Now they know what to do next. They decide to stay and bring the started to the end, now they have enough forces for this, now they have hope that everything from this moment will be fine. So it happened.
Spectators — who cried, and who smiled quietly, rejoicing for the heroes of the film, that they were able to defeat their ailments and walk to victory, and someone, as I understood later, built my route to Dardzhingling, and not in a figurative sense, but in the direct. Some of the guests at the end of the film decided that the brothers should go on the path to find her unique way. Yes, there were also such guests who only searched for their purpose in life and for them this film became a revelation, a guiding star, a sign of life, which from now on will lead them forward.
I was very pleased with the happening that evening. Then, when I for some reason spoke with the son of a guesthouse, his name was Manish, I thanked them that they came up with arrange a show of this film, they helped many guys in the awareness of that «Why are they here in India».
I realized that they often satisfied common shows, and the program was mainly from movies that are forced to think. Well done!
I thought and I. The truth is not the first time, and the million. «Why I’m here?». As soon as I did not twist this question as soon as I did not answer. I already asked myself and related questions «Where it is here?» and «And who is me?», But the rapids waited for me ahead.
I began to appreciate such moments when something is happening in the outside world, what makes you translate a look at yourself and look critical. Whether such moments became greater, or I began to pay attention to them, whether it was that it was the will of India to show me a reality a little wider, where I could see myself, but on the part. Once again I tell her thanks for these lessons!
Two hours later, as I got out of the room, I finally bought a fruit for my dinner and returned back to have a snack. Time flew to his guy, all acquired a special meaning. Everything manifested like a litmus paper. Event for an event. Only I will enter the rhythm, how is something that makes me show again. And it is right.
In one of the last days I decided that the best souvenir from India will be a bottle of water from the holy water of the Ganges River. What I did. I brought a small bottle of this water home and six months later she was the same clean, even without foreign odors. There is still something divine in it, which makes it special for millions of people.
Among the Hindus, the Ganges River is perceived only in one way as the Holy River. Tourists and pilgrims often fill this water bottle and take them home with them, can even bring them as a gift to a friend or relative. Now there are special companies that are engaged in the commercial supply of this water to other regions of the country for remuneration.
Almost every home in Hindus you can find a vessel with gangskaya water. It is used in many religious and everyday ceremonies, for example, for the ablution of the newborn, during the wedding, before death and during the funeral, when there is no opportunity to carry the dust of the deceased to the river.
And what is the most amazing, what I did not know earlier, this water is the basis for many traditional drugs in India. Did not check for yourself, but everything can be.
In addition to a few milliliters of water from the river, I also brought many, many memories and something you already read in this book. One of these memories will definitely live in me for a long time, in any case.
Once I wandered so far and completely disconnected from reality, that when the edge of the eye saw a strange man in front, externally similar to the savage, overgrown and in rags, in addition he was with an ax. Since this meeting took place in the deaf forest, I almost detected for myself.
The first thought that flashed in my head screamed that he would kill me and burst on the spot, but gathering his will in his fist, I gave it to him and, having gotten, went away. I look at him, I thought I was a fool, which was afraid of something, my man does not touch anyone. Yes, scary, yes, far from civilization, in the deaf forest, but nothing — Everything cost.
For some reason, quite not far from the city itself, but there are no places here are completely deserted and there are no cars, although the road is. I just walked where the eyes look at the hour and, starting to get tired, I went down to the city to buy water and food. Having had a snack, it became obvious that I want to get further and moved up on the hills. A two hundred meters met the monkeys and spring family.
The legs of the buzzer, the road was only until up. A little further I decided to pick up a stick to rely on it when lifting and defended by every case. I have already experienced some sounds and root, but I stubbornly distilled away from myself any thoughts associated with something bad and went ahead.
After half an hour I rose meters at 400 over the city and I was opened with an amazing view of Rishikesh. I have seen the bridge Lakshman Julu and Gang bridge, and the foothills of Himalayas began to the right.
Offline cards showed nearby the presence of a trail that led to a waterfall and the observation platform, and even further were the cave askets. After the time of the plots, I began to understand that I forget the way back and generally began to disappear. Shrubs were on both sides through which it was difficult to advance, but I still walked. Here I began to come across some fresh earthy mounds, first small, then larger.
Some weather, I began to distinguish the rustling and someone’s steps, but no one was near. I clearly felt the presence, but I have not seen anyone through my eyes. Further the sounds became louder and I had a light chill on my back, I was sure that I was pursued. The right again appeared mounds, completely fresh.
The road, meanwhile, was completely narrowing and led me to the cliff — There was no way forward: on the left emptiness of the cliff, to the right of the wall of trees and hills. I did not understand how it happened, on the map there should be an observation deck and a waterfall, but nothing was. I felt in a trap, and I didn’t get into her myself, and I was brought unknown forces. Sounds continued. I decided quickly go back to the city.
Again the path lay across the earthen embankments and then I was painted me that it was nothing more than someone’s burial and I became very bad.
I tried not to wind myself and looking for some more believable explanation to what was seen, but in vain. Without deciding to dig up so that no second here is no longer linger here, I rushed off back down.
Bushes whipped me in the face, but I continued to run. Stick decided to throw it out so that she does not slow down and further.
After 10 minutes, I went to a small glade, the light on which broke through the arrays of large trees. Stopped to catch her breath. Listen — sounds no longer audible, like a mysterious presence no longer felt. Definitely it was perfume or some invisible creatures for my gaze, guarding this place. I do not know what they were guarded and what they wanted to show it or to hide.
The fact is that I encountered something mystical that I did not touch me and allowed you to quietly leave. I have never experienced such feelings before, and it could not be understood, definitely. Usually I am not inclined to cheat yourself, so as not to bring myself to such fear. There was something for sure and I know.
But now it is just memories.
I understood that Rishikesh, most likely, will be the last stop in India, since my real life reminded itself increasingly and more. I was not afraid to return and began to prepare for this event. Since I didn’t need to hurry anywhere, I didn’t need to plan anything, I relaxed as much as possible and just lived my days in India.
I decided that it would be logical to collect together all photos and video materials that I did during this time and go through them, process and remount. So the remaining days I was very busy with this process.
My daily routine looked like this: in the morning of meditation and long walks around Rishikesh in nature, in the afternoon I was engaged in installation.
Such a routine of the day gave me an incredible pleasure, since I knew that I would bring the line and I need to fully realize that it happened to me for these one and a half or two months in my amazing journey. I watched and moved the materials, I filtered thoughts and memories, I lived again those moments of my «Triumfa», Speaking figurative.
Of particular joy these days, in addition to the above, I delivered animal feeding near Gangom. These were monkeys, and cows, and birds, and even fish.
The most fatal «manage to swallow a piece and asking the following» This is, of course, monkeys. I remember it’s still with the first trip to Asia, where I had a chance to feed the flock of wild monkeys in Monkey Forest, that on the island of Bali. They unceremoniously attacked everyone who had bananas in the hands of those who managed to go. Exactly second and the whole bundle of yellow fruit and there was no. They ask also so with each new guest who decided to come to their forest.
Therefore, in India, I was already more frustrated and fed the monkeys selectively, mostly small young or moms, but Grozny «men» I did not get anything from me, except for the words of sympathy.
These joker love to sit on the bridge, sometimes grabbing passers-by hair and clothes. Ask for food and attention. People willingly with them take pictures. Still, because it is a wonderful fun, here is such a living communication with nature without framework, perill and lattices. In this sense, India — This gift, because these cute and very hungry animals are surrounded. They are funny and lively.
Cows will also sometimes raise on Lakshman Julu and here it starts fun. On the bridge and so full of people, there are no longer these harmful motorcyclists and the poor, and the cow leaves, and everyone shakes everything from them, and if someone decides to give them a piece of food, then the movement on the bridge is finally stopped, because it seems slow and sluggish, but in fact very sharp cows begins to pursue the goodness who decided to treat them.
They could have been, I don’t have a difference, where to treat the hungry animal and who needs it, will wait until the cows go and move again will resume. Hunger is hunger, everyone has the right to go if they are kindly treated. They deserve respect.
Once it happened a whole story with a stupid man, who decided to dazzly to interrupt the cow and began to shove her in the side, then grabbed the horn and began to pull her forward, for this poor and angry cow decided to take revenge and chasing him. Welding, this uncle only looked around and a second later saw behind himself a cow’s head, which specially nourished to prepare and skip it on the fifth point. That was laugh! Everyone who was on the bridge loudly and laughed long. That still fun.
Obviously, the bold indian got his, because he encroached on the holy animal and immediately got his karma in the form of a boomeranga under the ass. And the cow by following his duty, satisfied went away from the bridge. This lesson man will be waiting for the rest of his life: «Do not disturb others by the will of your and the lack of patience you, you will be punished. Respect others and act with them as I wanted to come with you».
Speaking about animals in Rishikesh, it is worth mentioning the seamless of the locals who have developed invented selling bread «Kolobki» or just bread balls. Having bought such food, it is assumed that you are heightened by his fish in Gange, because the sellers themselves advise themselves, but I went even further and fed a few cows.
This action, I called a lot of indignation on the faces of the sellers of bread, as they say to everyone that it is only for fish, and why not explain. If so, then the fishes have enough food, because the flow of tourists here is abundant and everyone buy it for happiness and to improve their karma. I decided to feed those who, in my opinion, this feed is missing. Going away a little to the side, I poured two paper plates of bread balls to the ground next to three cows — one mom and two calves. They are full of gratitude through the eyes of steel greedily eat food — I was happy.
Let the sellers were unhappy, because they themselves are not very complaining of cows, they believe that how much food do not give them, everyone will eat. I disagree with this and entered my own. With them was also not agreed by the elderly sadhu, who saw all this and called me to himself. He smiled and handed me his tanned hand, he said that I did right and he was glad that the cows got food.
Of course! Everyone was in winning: the sellers received their money and sold the goods, I bought their feed and fed the hungry, and who was hungry no longer. Another time I will feed and fish, and birds.
And there are dogs who also deserve food. Like people who have no money to buy a piece of bread. Helping them we help ourselves. Simple law of the universe. Once planted seed, soon will give the fruit and the help of one person will become an example of hundreds and thousands of others, because the main thing in the world is universal kindness and care.
India taught me every day, led me to meet my way, which sooner or later opens to me. Everything has its time.
And now after a couple of months of travel, a week before my departure home, I write these lines from Rishikes and try to build all the retrospective of my incredible travel. All that happened to me for these one and a half or two months outside the house.
What worried at the beginning, no longer so worries me now. Those the first emotions that covered me as soon as I got out of the plane in Trivandrum, they still remained in my memory, but I can’t call them extreme. But then. O! Then I had a shock and panic.
On the way, especially when you have a 13-tickle backpack behind you, and you go with him 10 km under the scorching sun in +35 to catch the train. These are these thoughts, they spinning in my head millions of times. I managed to remember and live again all my life. On the road we only have a time that does not take away. I thought and thought I am, where I, why I’m here, what should I do next. It will be a great farm theorem. I still search and search for answers. But it’s time to return home.