Time to live and travel time. Chapter 12
After Delhi, nothing frightens in India and I could easily get out of a dozen of the annoying motoriksh, and without rudeness, I could easily drink hot tea with a volley and it was not terrible to walk at night in the dark one.
In Jaipur, I arrived on the eve of the Great Indian Holi holiday. The city began full-scale training.
Circle was sold to color powder for the celebration, and the defortion has already begun to make training launches with colored water according to passersby.
In Jaipur, the eastern atmosphere was especially felt, as if, from a fairy tale «1000 and 1 night». The air groin of the desert and the color of the buildings was matte red.
I stopped at the Sikh family in their beautifully decorated house, which was not far from the main railway station of the city. Every morning and evening began under the sounds of ritual music and prayers, the owners lit incense and set them at home altars.
On the day of arrival, I immediately bought tickets to Agra, because I wanted to have time to go there before the start of Holi and go back to Jaipur, where I celebrate this holiday, so the next day I went to the city on the first morning train, where the famous Taj- Mahal.
It was a one-day trip and I assumed to return the evening train, that is, in one day I needed to have time to inspect Agru, Taj Mahal and Agra Fort.
In the morning in the train I talked with an older man, he was wondering where I go, so we met. I told him about my journey, and he said that she was going to the village to a friend. What was my surprise when we were in one train in the evening and in one car. We welcomed each other as old friends.
The first thing that rushed into the eye in the agra is that Rickish drivers are especially annoying. I felt one of the beatles in the midst of bitleania. Everyone wants to tear off a piece from you, but I understand them and have nothing against. Most of them are friendly and finally joke.
The services of one of them, who was the first, I took advantage, he brought me to the city center.
Agra turned out to be a small city where the main infrastructure was built around the Taj Mahal. As they say, all the ways in Agra are leading to this shining marble tomb of the ancient queen.
Immediately you should warn about the rules for visiting the Taj Mahal. I recommend to take things to at least or pass them in advance in the storage room, which is located down the road towards Agra Fort, it is left of the ticket office, meters 100. Allowing the camera and allow water to be allowed, with backpacks and bags there is a risk of not passing, but depends on the guard, which will meet you at the entrance.
Near the cashier do not forget to take or buy a couple of replaceable bohot, since the entrance to the territory of the tomb is strictly only in them, in order not to blur the snow-white marble.
For those who are going to visit the Agra Fort, there will be a special ticket office for tourists, where there is no queue, but only the cost of entering bite. In March of this year, the passage cost 750 rupees. But back to the Taj Mahal.
Taj Mahal on the right occupies an honorable place in the list of new wonders of the world. Built in the 17th century, he also also shines dazzling in the sun, though the price of numerous cleansing procedures using white clay, otherwise marble starts shirt. Contamination of the atmosphere is fault. Also in the risk area turned out to be the structure itself, the cracks were recently found on it, apparently due to the soil settlement. Palace stands on the banks of the Yamuna River, which over the years is mines, so drying soil can cause the destruction of Taj. But I hope that this is not happening soon and we can continue to enjoy the beautiful types of this majestic creation of the architecture of the East.
I was struck by one fact associated with the details of construction, so here, as reported by the sources, materials for the construction of the palace were supplied from all over Asia, including Sri Lanka, Tibet, China and Afghanistan. 20 years. Taj is considered the best example of the architecture of the Great Mughal era, is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
You know, it is worth seeing these huge majestic buildings to think as far as, after all, there was a developed civilization. Why only when they talk about India forget this fact?! Forget her great history and contribution to the development of the world as a whole. Unfortunately, many see and perceive it literally like a sheet of paper that has become dirty and mint.
It is clear that India had very difficult for the last 100 years, where there was no case to anyone, because from the inside it was ruined with huge contradictions and problems, hunger and poverty. But do not forget that this was preceded. The picture must be seen entirely, then the perception of the world will be objective, at least partly.
If we say about me and my impression from what he saw here in Agra, I, rather, was restrained in the expression of feelings, because so often I saw the mention in modern culture about this palace, that for a second it seemed to me that I had already seen him and More than once and at the sight of the palace, I, unfortunately, did not experience some deep and enthusiastic feelings. Yes, beautiful, yes, majestically, but only that the whole majesty of the Taj Mahal does not diminish, which, thanks to the thorough and painstaking work of local caretakers, lived to this day.
I decided to no longer linger there and therefore I fished the whole area quickly and went on foot in Agra Fort.
Halfway I saw the branch of the road to the right and thought that it would be nice to go down to the Yamuna River.
To my surprise, I discovered the crematorium there, where they burned the dead. At this very moment 2 bodies burned there and I stayed at this procession. Here it is India, opens everything from new and new sides, surprises every second. Local residents were glad to the overseas guest, which joined them at the cremation ceremony and we sat in the shadow and watched how the bodies burn.
I did not experience disgust or fear, I just understood that there was no difference that would be with your body after death. Whether it is committed to land or fire, in terms of cosmogony, everything is harmonious.
After the ceremony I needed a little to come to my senses and I decided to take a walk in the park, which was located between the Taj Mahal and Agra Fort. There a little boy came up to me and asked alms. He understood a little in English and said he had no parents and that he did not go to school and lives on the street. At this moment, the driver of Rickshads stayed next to us and went to us. I told him about the boy and asked if he wanted to adopt his. The man was not against and already spoken with the boy, but this young Torvan said that he did not like the driver of Ricksha and he does not want him to the fathers.
On this we went. The driver went on his rickshe, the boy spoke to the group of other Europeans, and I was waiting for Agra Fort, where I went.
In the evening I was sitting at the train station waiting for the train and pondered this day in Agre. In trying to find something invisible, I bump into people, on the details, on life that boils around.
I’m trying to remember this moment and go further where my way leads me. Today I come back to Jaipur to discover a new page in my journey in India.
300 km south-west of Delhu is Jaipur. The city that has received its name, thanks to the Rajput ruler of the Gay Singhu II. In 1727, a new palace city was founded around Fort Amber in the Valley «Jaya». Jai name means «victory».
The layout was intended mainly rectangular and the city is divided into 9 sectors. Around the city, a barrier wall stretched, as if repeating the bends of the hills.
Jaipur — These are streets, its geometry and color of buildings. These are people, smells, sounds. And, of course, animals: cows, goats, pigs, dogs, monkeys.
And the entire center of the capital of Rajastan is painted with pink color, which is why he got such a name — Pink city.
It will be appropriate to recall one legend, according to which the city was painted with a specific purpose, namely, to the arrival of the British Prince Albert in 1883. In color, which in the Rajput culture is considered to be the color of hospitality.
In general, the whole thing is in pink limestone, from which the center of Jaipur was built.
First of all, I went to the main attraction of the city of the Wind Palace.
In this palace, Maharaja lived in this century, and now it is an open-air museum. Inside a large territory, where you can walk for a long time in different tiers and corridors.
In the main facade of the building, more than 900 windows were made, which would allow to air the inner premises of the Palace in particularly hot days, which is why he got its name — Palace of Winds.
For lovers Photos I can advise that the best pictures are obtained, if you do from the opposite side of the street, where there are shops and shops. Some of them can be climbed to the top floor and from the balcony to photograph a two-year-old Hava-Mahal in complete glory.
While I walked around the palace, from where a beautiful view of the hills and for the famous fort, I wanted to go there more and more, because they were more interested in me — Ancient Forts Jaipur.
Fort Amber and Fort Nahargars, who are a little outside the city on a hill, where you need to go through a steep serpentine, the road loops, opening the bottom of the city at the bottom.
Forts occupy extensive territories and how to hang over the city. They feel all the former greatness and luxury of the ancient kings and their disappeared kingdoms. From the walls of the fort there is a view of the floating palace of Gal Mahal, as well as on the new and old Jaipur. You can also see slums that are practically bordered with the walls of the Palace.
In Fort Nahargars, there is also an underground well, where the staircase for several tiers down.
In general, Rajasthan state is famous for Forts and Maharaj’s Palaces, there is almost in any city there is a large palace, as well as deserts and hilly valleys.
In my childhood, the black Indian tea in a white paper package was very popular in Russia, on which the driveman was drawn on an elephant.
Now I understand what kind of city I have been associated with this picture — With Jaipur. There were also elephants and, perhaps, the most delicious tea that I was just lucky enough to try in India.
I would not betray this memoil if it had not been brightly brightly popped into my memory. In fact, between Russia and India there has always been a lot in common and I slowly recalled this connection. Here in Jaipur, where I was thereby linking.
Today’s Jaipur is still surrounded by hills from all sides and looks very beautiful that the day that at night. This city, definitely, has retained his highlight.
It unites in himself in his appearance features of antiquity and also the modernity, which attracts tourists from all over the world. Mass of historical sights will enjoy all connoisseurs of beauty and architecture.
A few words about one mandatory element of architecture of all Asian cities. It’s wires above your head.
Punches of electrical wires above their heads cover a lot of free space inside cities. While you go, these tentacles of invisible octopuses hang on you. They have a property grow and capture everything around like tumors. But if there is no use for the benefit tumor for a person, then these wires give people electricity and communication. Perhaps if we understood the nature of the formation of tumors, we could answer the question about their true sense and influence on a person. I just die from them. Perhaps the answers are not yet found why it happens with a cell that begins to kill myself. But let’s not talk about sad.
These beams of wires can be taken for clusters of neural bonds in the human brain and, more than them, the better for a person — it makes him smarter. Knowing, we develop our thinking, open new horizons for yourself.
Seeing this relationship with objects in the material world, I am convinced again that all of them, well, or at least most, is in the matter of what is already in the living world around. We adapt what is created by nature in the material world so that it serves for the benefit of mankind. It is interesting and deep, especially if we accept the fact that a person will not be able to survive separately from nature, and therefore we need this connection to maintain and protect. Since we are one whole, we are blood relatives. We are all here.
Meanwhile, the city has already finally covered the holi hysterium. All bazaars sold colored powder in huge quantities and the goods diverged lightning.
I watched the Indians tremendously relate to this day and try to pull them away as much as possible on the holiday. From tiny children to fluffy old men — everyone will participate in celebration.
I recommend buying a new and cheap clothes, preferably white (so more noticeable future color), including shoes, so as not to spare about your spoiled new jeans from Couture.
I also recommend carefully packing my photos and video cameras into the film so that they are not injured in the color battle on the streets of the city. And do not forget to buy a huge amount of soap so that it is subsequently safely washed off the entire color mixture from your bodies. Now you are ready to celebrate Holi!
Holi — it’s very funny madness in the morning and deep night. Streets are filled with thousands of people. Temptation of color. All shower each other with a color powder and pour underwater water.
Each Indian considers his duty to decorate a white foreigner, whom he will only meet in his path on Holi Day. If you are not a child, then with a probability of 100% will be covered with paint from the top of you.
At first it may seem rude to you, but then you and you are with azart child to run for the Hindu running away from you, which has just poured you to paint. And all this is accompanied by a loud laughter and thousands of smiles.
It is impossible to confront the holiday. All this is done very good in the name of the holiday of Spring, and it only happens once a year. And you are lucky if you are lucky to be on this day in India.
The sound of the drums, incendiary music and dances thundered for a long time for midnight, without giving a sick eye to anyone. And the next morning, some were just returned, who home, who to work, all degraded, but such contented.
Run ahead, I will say that a couple of days later, when I was already in Varanasi, the celebration of Holi continued. Here is such a cheerful and unique holiday exist in India not one century. As well, and any other holiday in India such.
The next morning the city looks a bit deserted and surreal due to the fact that everything is painted with a color powder.
Meanwhile, I made a further route where I went after Jaipur and all the maps were in favor of the sacred city of Varanasi. To do this, I needed to put myself in order after the Holi holiday.
The route was drawn up, but it was a feeling that I was holding something or pulls me and I mentally began to sort out that it could be. For a few days I meditated, asked my questions. The conclusion was that I somehow threw the past, which, as I believed, has long been lived and is forgotten, but no, apparently the insisted pieces remained in the memory.
A couple of evenings I rummaged in my memory, washing these already completely unnecessary fragments of the past. One by one! I no longer need. There is only me today. All the necessary lessons were learned earlier and lived.
The old one has already ended, and the new has not yet come.
While I made my thoughts in order, I changed and my energy, I felt the power and some small fire flared up inside me.
This inner fire allowed me to choose my battle for strength. This is not my point, it is the philosophy of South American tribes who believe that it is better to take the right battle than to be in an unconscious state, a grain between frustration and euphoria, without even the slightest ability to regulate the dynamics of such a lifetime.
American writer and publisher. Atkinson wrote in his book «Raja Yoga»: «This person (spiritual person) knows that there are the keys to all of the knowledge that these keys are in His keys, and that the developed mind, exposed to proper training and culture under the guidance of awakened will, can find these keys and take advantage of them. Knowing it, going forward a person does not despair, but seeks to know his true nature and its possibilities.
Awakening gradually to the consciousness of his strength and abilities, he laughs at his old disappointment, over pessimistic ideas and throws them like a worn dress».
Changes were very useful, but there was still a small detail, which should be eliminated before leaving in Varanasi.
While I was in India, I am pretty overgrown and I urgently needed to trim in order to consolidate the practice of farewell with the past.
In the morning, I ran to the local barbell on the haircut. Grandfather very neatly and quickly cut me, and a pleasant bonus turned out to be a head massage. And all this pleasure was worth me, some 200 rubles.
By the way, making a massage of the head after the haircut in Indian hairdressers is considered relevant and it is very cool, alone, for European traditions, where these services do not mix.
To get to Varanasi from Jaipur after the celebration of Holi was not so simple, so I had to make a hook and go back to Delhi, and from there you can move to the eternal city.
In Varanasi, I had to sum up the preliminary brief of my travel and decide for myself in the right direction I move.
In the meantime I drove to Jaipur Airport, where I was waiting for the plane to Delhi.
This is my not the first flight inside the country and I even began to like to fly by local speaker. There, I managed to carry my 15 kg backpack to the salon, it was tasty fed vegetarian food and, that’s the most cool, so this is what the flight lasts on average 1—2h.
Why I flew from the south of India to Delhi is understandable — a large distance and the only option quickly move from here there — Only a plane. Another thing is why I’m flying from Jaipur, from which to Delhi is only 250 km, and because in the midst of the Holi holiday to get to Varanasi almost unrealistic.
There were no options and options, except for the plane, I did not see. Of course, it was possible to go with a hare, but with such a pile of people who, during the holiday, everyone go somewhere, I did not want to. In addition, I managed to find through the search in the local application of the Cleartrip ticket, which was worth a penny and what will ask to deny yourself in comfort when the option got straight «on a saucer with blue sledge», Striving by the words of respected Osta Bender.
Meanwhile, I passed passport control and thought about to eat. I really wanted Masala Tea.
In the departure zone, I met a man who flew to Delhi, so that from there to move to Shimla and we talked about her, because at that moment I was very interested in this city, but I did not know whether I would go there — My final path will be much later.
My interlocutor was called Rajdr and he turned out to be famous in India writer. His history and tourism of India became very popular and were often used in scientific circles.
— Greetings! You are also a plane? — He turned to me and sat down near Gaita.
— Good morning! Yes, I’m flying in Delhi.
— By what occasion, let me ask?
— This is great! I’m happy for you. I hope you like India?
— Not the Sovar, if I say that I am very interested in spending time here and now my way lies through Delhi in Varanasi.
— My advice to you, except Varanasi, be sure to visit Sarnath and Bodhgayy — Buddhism Centers in India. Very spiritually saturated region there.
— thanks for the advice! Just they are in my list and I will try to get there all forces. And where do you know about these places?
— I myself love to travel in India and know a lot about my country, which I wrote a book.
— Wow! Did not expect such a meeting. Happens! You know me tormented by one question, let?! What is the mystery of India? Why she so manits people from all over the world?
— We live simple Indians in the heart and do not hesitate. We are not afraid of anything, because we are our gods with us. In them we find all the answers, support and love. Wherever we are, we believe in Karma and if you are not lucky in this life, you still need to live righteously to reborn better in the following.
— Yes, I understand what you are talking about! Perhaps I agree with you. I want to add and I hope so that India is waiting for prosperity and rise at all levels of life and equally for all. All deserve to be happy already in this life.
— Thank you, Roman! And we love to sing and dance! — He laughed.
— This you can not take away! — I fired him and laughed in response.
In Delhi, our ways were separated. His bus was waiting for Shimla, and I moved to the connection flight to Varanasi.