Tibet. Between heaven and earth

I am a geologist by profession and I love my work very much. The second is my love that echoes the first – this is traveling. Travel teach us to be happy. When we learn more about the world and people in it, step over the usual borders, and try something new, they involuntarily become more open and more real.

Every journey is a useful experience.

In September of this year I went to the expedition to Tibet. I consider Tibet one of the most interesting, most mystical places on the planet, so I want to share my impressions with you.

I can not say that I dreamed of visiting Tibet, but I knew almost all my life that I would visit there. Since then at school years, Lobsang Rampov read the books, then there were texts.Muldashev and Roerichov, documents about the expedition e.Shepher, film "Seven years in Tibet" and DR.

Someone on vacation rides relax and fill in warm edges, to the sea or ocean, and I am in the mountains, where it is cold and windy, difficult multi-kilometer transitions. But but it is extremely interesting!

Photo. Merge of two rivers: with green waters and turbid-brown. The view from the window of the aircraft

Probably everyone knows that Kailas is almost the only mountain peak on Earth, not conquered by man, at least officially. Around Kailash only commit ritual circumambulation – bark, which usually lasts three days. And the height of Kailas is about 6666 m, but absolute marks change, the mountain lives, just write this beautiful figure to give even greater mystical. And there are many interesting facts of truthful and not very. Tibet is a mysterious country that still remains one of the most closed. Get there not just. Many legends are associated with Tibet: it is considered the roof of the world, the cradle of civilization, in Tibet is looking for Shambalu and Enlightenment. But it’s all legends. And what about actually?

Before his trip, I published a post on the Internet that tie at the full moon at the Kailash chalama (this Tuvan tradition) of all comers. And now on the roof of the world, developing colored ribbons with more than 50-th names, most of which Tuvan. It seems that Kailas has not yet seen this.

First impressions

And here I am flying in Lhasu … I can not believe ..

As always, when registering, I ask the porthole and this time led – Dali. When landing, I watch the stunning types of the highest mountains on the planet. The beauty of the Himalayas, of course, fascinates. But I was struck and industrial Tibet: in every valley solar panels, dumps, some manufacturing, etc.NS., LED stretch, it seems through all the Himalayas.

In fact, Tibet is a treasury of minerals. In Tibet, there are largest uranium deposits, large deposits of rare earth elements, polymetallic ores and oil

Flew to Lhasa. Sunny and warm. Out of the plane and … I feel stronger heartbeat and somehow shaking legs. UV, here it is highlands. Lhasa is at an altitude of 3656 m and this is one of the most highly mountain capitals of the world.

Photo. Lhasa – the capital of Tibet

For me, Tibet, among other things, has become an indicator of illusion of the division of peace to "bad" and "good". In the cult film "Seven years in Tibet" just show events when Tibet occupation began. And it was exactly 70 years ago, in 1949. Scary events for Tibet. It would seem that it is definitely a very negative moment of history. This is true, but how much did the Chinese have made over the past 70 years … Now Lhasa is a modern city, with comfortable multi-storey buildings in the new part of the city and the preserved historical center. Modern technologies and ancient traditions are peacefully in Lhasa. The city, surprisingly very clean, on the streets are constantly removed the garbage and wash the roads, almost complete absence of crime, free training and medical insurance. Surprised and a large number of free and clean toilets. Good roads everywhere and in the city, and outside the city, which I think it was not easy to do in conditions of mining. Well, most importantly, Tibet has become open and more or less accessible, t.E. I was able to go there. Dalai Lama can now communicate with the whole world. And this is great value.

Yes, any conversations for political topics are prohibited in Tibet and there are always a lot of police on the streets, the checkpoints that check all. Yes, Tibetans and now there are no passports, t.E. They do not have the opportunity to travel around the world. Our guide said that, for example, he, having a license of a guide, has a chance to get a passport and he has a dream – to come to Russia.

But at the same time, the state does not interfere in the cultural and religious life of Tibetans. Oddly enough, most Tibetans do not know any language except Tibetan, t.E. They do not even know their state language – Chinese (and this is in the capital, in Lhasa). Not a single word in English and at the same time, manage to trade on the streets, selling something to foreigners, to communicate using a translator on a smartphone.

In general, everything is not so unequivocal in the world, there is no only black and white, good and bad, the world is multifaceted and multiply.

Photo. On the streets of Lhasa

On the day of arrival, in the evening went to dine into a wonderful Tibetan restaurant. Very tasty! And I first seemed to be adapted for foreigners. As I compared with Tibetan cuisine in Nepal, where everything is very sharp. But then we ate in different places, including on the crust – and always the food was not acute.

To go to this restaurant went past the monastery, around which the local population is committed. Have exercised, back went the same expensive, we do not know the other. And it turned out that we go counterclockwise to all meet. We almost every match tried to say that we are going wrong.

Photo. Evening lhasa.

Here, they all thought that we did wrong. According to their concepts, it is impossible to go Crae counterclockwise, well, if only you are not a supporter of Religion Bon. And we just returned home after dinner …

And what do you think, can I immediately appreciate the importance of changes that occur in life?

Monasteries Tibeta

Tibet is the sacred land of secrets and riddles, which is famous for its monasteries. Tibet monasteries are whole cities where they live and study both monks and ordinary people who are later returned to the usual worldly life in cities. To the Chinese cultural revolution in the monasteries, up to a third of the country’s population, at present, of course, less.

The temple complex Potala is the most recognizable and famous location in Lhasa, this is a residence, now former, Dalai Lama. The name "Potala" is borrowed from Sanskrit, and in Tibetan, they say, it sounds like "COLOR", which means "mystical mountain". And also, Potted was called the legendary mountain in India, where Avalokiteshwara was born, whose earth incarnation is the Dalai Lama.

And here I go through the same rooms for which Dalai Lama went … how much and everyone saw these walls! Captures spirit!

Photo. Potala Palace (Lhasa. Tibet).

Now Potala is a mausoleum and a museum in which unique cultural and scientific values ​​are stored. But at present, Potal is often referred to as the Heart of World Buddhism: High Halls, Chapels, Vintage Libraries. Walls are covered with painting, exquisite thread and thousands of stones. In the Central Palace there are tombs of all Dalai Lam, who lived here. Potala keeps many ancient relics: frescoes, statues of Buddha, stories, unique sutors and hundreds of other exhibits with a rich history.

In Tibet monasteries, a special atmosphere. First, they are all connected with natural attractions, it is either mountains, or caves in the mountains. T.E. It is already initially how it is customary to speak, the place of power. Secondly, all monasteries acting, their life flows, like hundreds of years ago, therefore, it seems that time stopped. Thirdly, there are many pilgrims here (pilgrims, not tourists!), and the Tibetans themselves, t.E. these places, indeed, worship, thereby, more and more work in force. Well, probably there is no more such places in the world where so many enlightened.

Photo. Wonderful panoramic view opens from the walls of the monastery Dark Yerp

Monasteries are impressive. Singing mantras when the service goes, fascinates. Despite fatigue and continuing adaptation, when every step is with difficulty, we climb into the mountains to monasteries, go around the bark around them. And as a reward for this, we get amazing views, unearthly vibrations and filling all this energy. Although, of course, it may be all trite from fatigue and lack of oxygen.

Photo. Buddha statue inside the monastery. If you manage to throw to her for a pedestal of the Hadak (ritual white scarf), then the riddled desire will come true

In the monasteries, we walk with offerings: oil yak for lamps, Sang (so-called in Tibet all incense) and kadaki (ritual scarves) white. I like a beautiful explanation about the lamps: the fire should always burn to illuminate the path of the soul and in general, to be lighter in the world.

Photo. Monastery Tashilongau. One of the largest in Tibet

With the weather, we were lucky all the way and we had awesome views! We saw how the sky falls on the ground with tuckers and, on the contrary, how it rises in the morning with light clouds. Mountains are my love since childhood, with my Todii (district in Tuva) and for life.

Photo. Town Saga. Very handsome, with its special atmosphere, surrounded by mountains and a steep wall


It so happened that since time immemorial, the Sacred Mount Kaylas inspires people, fame and myths about it disagree all over the world. Kailas was the focus of the most ancient civilizations. Adherents of two ancient religions – Hindus and Buddhists, consider this unusual mountain in the heart of the world and the axis of the earth. Hindus believe that at the top of Kailas there is a monastery of Shiva, Buddhists consider the hill of the Buddha’s habitat (one of his incarnations).

Probably everyone knows that in the form of Kailas is a tetrahedral pyramid focused on the sides of the world. On the southern slope (south, as they say here), grooves are clearly visible, in shape resembling a swastika. But more they look like steps, on the ladder, which draw Tibetans in large quantities on the sacred mountains along with mandalas and mantras. These steps – as a symbol of spiritual development.

Photo. This is how the way looks like on the first day of the crust. We go on an uninformed valley

The first day of the crust. They walked down the gorge between the mountain ranges, bypassing Kailas clockwise. I thought it would be very hard that the energy of Kailas should be strong and tough. But no, everything turned out not so. When they walked along the western slope was the feeling that Kailas gently hugs his wanderers. This is due to the fact that the Western slope is concave and has two ridges, like two hands disclosed for hugs. I walked and admired beautiful unearthly species. As if entered in the paintings of Roerich and every step around it becomes more beautiful and more unusual.

Photo. Western face Kailas

Tibetans are coming, counting mantras, rotating prayer drums in one hand, and in the other – turning over the rosary. Some pilgrims go with stretches. In this mode, the bark takes 3-4 weeks.

On the way there are tents – Tea House, in which you can relax, drink tea, buy water. In some, you can even eat. Almost all through the way there is an Internet. So the path is very civilized.

Photo. Northern Kailasa

On the first day we went around half and stopped for the night in the monastery at the northern slope. This is the most recognizable and replicable view of Kailas. And in the evening there was a chic gift – Sunset. When Kailas has become a couple of minutes by fiery. And bright yellow-orange clouds twisted, reminding the picture of Van Gogh "Starry Night".

The second day of the cortex began to darkenly, the path covered only the full moon and our lanterns. The longest and most complex route. Dawn met on the way.

The path was very beautiful. And despite some difficulties, pleasant. On the trail is always taken to greet. This rule is respected on any tracking in any country. And here not only greet, but communicated with each other, offering tea and a simple snack, someone taught me to properly use sticks with a steep descent with a rash pebbles. And for me still remains a mystery, as we communicated, not knowing English.

Tibet. Between heaven and earth

Photo. Green Tara Pass. The highest point of the route (5669 m). Participated in a small ritual

The final part of the route on this day was the simple way on almost even terrain – 12 km to the place of overnight stay in the monastery. But, as we then discussed, it was not easy for many of this monotonous segment, and everyone was already tired after the pass. And for me it was, on the contrary, a pleasant way. Go easy-to-go. fall into some trance, in my head – not a single thought, but it is already postfactum aware.

Photo. Here is such beauty opens for the pass

The third day of the bark was the easiest and most pleasant. I walked and admired the paints. On exposures (Geol.Term) adjacent saturated red and bright green breeds. Unreal combination of flowers!

And closer to Darchen, the steppe began. And this is such a native and favorite fragrance for me! When smells steppe spicy herbs, dust and sun.

In my opinion, it is not necessary to think that, having passed the Corra, you can solve your problems, to cleanse, achieve some enlightenment, as they write on the Internet. No, everything goes to her. And the mountains, and even such hard-to-reach and beautiful – it is an opportunity to meet with yourself.

Sacred lakes

Tibetans are reverent about their water sources. In the lakes who are considered sacred, you can not swim, you can not come to them. You can only dip your hands and consecrate any items. Around these lakes, how around any shrines in Tibet, make a ritual bypass – Corra.

We visited two of the 4 sacred Lakes Tibeta: Lake Yamdrok-Tso and Manasarovar and on the magnificent lake Rakshastal.

Lake Rakshastal and Manasarovar – very interesting. These are antipodes located close to each other and even connecting narrow. And despite this, their water is not mixed. In the form of Manasarovar, almost round, personifies with the Sun, and the rackshaft – elongated and curved, personifies with the moon.

Racchastal is called the devilish lake with dead water. On the Internet you can find a lot of information about Manasarovar, and there is almost nothing about rackshaft. It is said that the Hindus is even afraid to approach him, not what to swim in it. Objective information: Rakshastal Salon Lake, there is a very high silver content, so it is dark and there is almost no living nature. T.E. This is a real "dead water", as in our fairy tales, which disinfects and cures wounds. Here always blows a strong wind and lake storm. Lake highlight, located at an altitude of 4560 m.

Photo. Dubolsky Lake Raksstal

Surprisingly, but from afar, Rakshstal shines beautiful turquoise waters. And just approaching closer we felt a strong, penetrating the wind and saw that water near the coast of black color with raging waves. And in the distance at the depth – calm turquoise water. I struck this duality!

Lake Manasarovar – Sacred, With Live Healing Water. Water is fresh, and in it, a lot of living creatures, unlike Rakshastal, in which no one lives. It is said that the lake is always a calm and shines the sun. Yes, this time it was. And he has a deep blue water, at least we saw this time this time.

Photo. Dawn on the Holy Lake Manasarovar

What was my surprise when I learned that there are also "boiling water" next to the Lake and dead water, everything is like in a fairy tale about the horse-humpback. Natural Mineral Hot Baths. Before the journey we did not talk about it. Oh, these baths – I got great pleasure! We have just passed the bark and not that they did not wash three days, but not even washed. Nowhere was. Teeth I cleaned with a little drinking water bottle. And the baths are almost civilized, as in the balneological resort. These are individual cabins with wooden (!) Baths. For hygiene, the bath is covered with an individual polyethylene sheet and turns on hot water. And all this in the middle of the steppe, and from above – the sunny sky.

Water Manasarovar – this is the special wealth of Tibet. There are many legends and believes about the lake, it is mentioned in Indian Epos Ramayana. Hindus are confident that Manasarovar is the soul of the brahma god. It is believed that Shiva and his wife Parvati bathed here. Buddhists believe that Manasarovar is that there is a legendary lake where the gods moved Buddha after birth to wash him.

Me Manasarovar seemed very affectionate, calm and relatives. You can sit on his shore, listening to silence and admiring sunlight on the water. And all the time it seemed to me that I was magically moved to my native Tuva and sit on the shore of Oz. Tore-hol.


When we moved on the way back, the weather spoiled sharply. Snow went, and there was almost nothing on the track in places. Weather seemed to us that it happens in the mountains. When the blizzard, of course, it becomes much more difficult, for some it is simply impossible, not visible mountains and all the beauty that Tibet showed us. Corre not all, and the matter is not in physical fitness, the mountain disease is affected, weather conditions.

Even with a group that walked in August was snowfall. So here with the weather you can’t guess. It remains only to hope for luck. Our group was lucky with the weather, there was no rain, nor snow.

Photo. Stones with sacred mantra. They are left by those who passed the bark

Twelve days in Tibet. It was a whole life. On the final dinner, everyone spoke about the most important thing that impressed most. Many talked about surprisingly open and good local populations. Many were impressed by Buddhist datsans with stunning energy, especially when we managed to attend services. Agree with all. And at the same time, the most inspired nature. Amazing, admiring beauty and power.

Photo. This is Tibet. Mountains, aspiring in the sky, Snake "Serpentina", Colored checkboxes (lungt), developing in the wind

Let’s not forget that the earth is alive and what treats it is necessary with all respect.

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