Sunny spot city
There are cities in which there is no refund. And there are cities in which you will definitely come: Even if never been in Kyiv, it’s all the same – in the spring, in summer, in the winter suddenly, the Kyiv wind will take it to you, bring the smell of flowering chestnuts, or raw Kyiv snow, or river spring hum. And that’s all, and immediately feel a rare bird, and we are flying to the middle of the Dnieper, at least for a day or two.
What can be seen in Kyiv in two days? In the first arrival, you can not get anywhere from the standard tourist route: Andreevsky Descent – Independence Square – Khreshchatyk – Golden Gate. And still need to look into the laurel, and to watch Vladimir with the cross, and go to the Sofia Cathedral. So run all day. Postcard city, gold domes, holy power, Ukrainian baroque, Motherland Bulgakov, Mother of our cities. And then tell everyone: they were, they say, in the mother of the cities of our. Beautiful mother.
But the more often you come to this city, the more it opens, the brighter the sunny spots on the asphalt, and the Dnipro becomes wider. No, do not reach the middle, there is not enough time to see everything: Maple at the historical museum, where tourists come around all the time – to be photographed against the background of the hen and Andreevsky descent; Trukhanov island, the only piece of untouched nature in the center of Kyiv, and for the whole day you won’t go around, – soon, they say, the amusement park will be arranged there, and the island Trukhanov will end; Mikhailovskaya Square with a newly restored Mikhailovsky monastery; Red University; Botanical Garden. No, Kyiv in a few days it is impossible to inspect. Let tourists run there and here, trying to remember all words of the guide. Kyiv need to feel. You need to say hello to him. He needs to worship. And then the nature of the city is not easy: wants – the weather will arrange the most beautiful for you, and everything will show from the best side, and the Dnieper will be affectionate, quiet. And if it turns out in a bad mood – so you all two days and walk in the Maidan inequishment and wondering what it is for a strange place.
. And sister their libery
Kyiv is fined with words legends from "Time of temporary years" ("And household three brothers: a single name of cue, and another cheek, and the third chorive, and the sister of their libery. And the schurch of Grad in the name of his brother of his eldersago, and the name of him Kyiv is improked ..") before the beginning of the twentieth century – to Bulgakovskaya "White Guard", Recognition in love city: "Spring bloomed with white gardens, dressed in the greens of the royal garden, the sun was broken in all windows, the fires lied in them. And Dnipro! And sunsets! And the imagination monastery on the slopes! Green Sea Outcomes ran to Multicolored Lasted Dnieper. Black and blue thick nights over water, electric cross. Vladimir hanging in height. ".
The first mention of Kyiv in the chronicles belongs to 862 years, and it was about the way that the famous Kyiv was said: "Our Land is great and abundant, but there is no order in it". Prince Oleg (who took death from his horse), Prince Igor, Princess Olga, whom, by Karamzin, "Tradition made a tricky, church – sacred, history – wise", Vladimir Krasno Sunny and the beginning of Christianity, Yaroslav Wise – Early Kyiv history went into quotes and opera arias. Still left temples and monuments.
The Sophia Cathedral was built back in the XI century, when Moscow did not go on foot under the table, but even in the cradle did not lie. Archangel Mikhail and Saint Sophia are considered to be the heavenly patrons of Kyiv, and in the Sofia Cathedral to the sky – hand.
Then Kyiv-Pechersk Lavra appeared. At first, the monks founded the abode in the caves, and then built the Pechersk Monastery with the Holy Assumption Cathedral. This cathedral, blown up the time of the Great Patriotic and Restored in 2000, and Caves, Rally and Middle, – the main attractions of the Kyiv-Pechersk Lavra. In the caves, more than 900 years have been preserved non-reinforcement of the founders of the monastery – Rev. Anthony and Feodosia, the chronicler of Nesor, Ilya Murom. Tourists at the entrance to the laurel silence, looking like in the puddles in front of the gate a reflection of golden domes.
Monuments in Kyiv so much that, reviving, they could inhale a small village. The most famous – Vladimir Red Sunny Sun with a cross, towering over Dnipro since 1853. This monument to Peter Klodt was a beacon for pilgrims – once the gas horns were mounted in the cross, in 1895 they were replaced with electric light bulbs. A little lower, on the waterfront, there is another monument dedicated to Vladimir: 18-meter column over the Khreshchatitsky source, where "Great Prince Vladimir Kids". The monument to Bogdan Khmelnitsky, established in 1888 to commemorate the reunification of Ukraine with Russia, is known for the fact that when he was put on, could not decide which way the horse’s tail should look at the Sophia Cathedral! And in contrast – Mikhailovsky Monastery, is also not good. In general, the tail looks towards Moscow, whatever he thought of the Russia reunited with Ukraine.
Of the newly created monuments, the most beloved and tourists, and Kyivans, a monument to Prone Prokopovna and Svirida Holokhvastov, the characters of the Pieces of Staritsky "For two hares". It stands near St. Andrew Temple. Tourists sit down to Svirida, hug away and take pictures, polishing to the brilliance of tribe.
Non-access and independence
Today, Kyiv has grown out of what has been preserved after the Great Patriotic War, and what was sorry to break after the collapse of the USSR. The famous Khreshchatyk in the war was destroyed almost completely, so built in the late 40s. And projects of houses, facades and highness were approved in Moscow, and then suddenly some building will be higher or larger in the structures on Tverskaya.
Independence Square (Maidan Uncompleteness; "That the ours do not freeze, we do not get rid of", – explain Kyiv residents) – also illustration to Kyiv history. This area seemed so much that now she is still like it is called and what they are built on it. Here at one time there was a forest, then swamp, then a wasteland, then the market, there were circus ideas, then built the provincial noble assembly, planted with chestnuts. The area was called the Khreshchatytic, then the Duma, then the Soviet, then the Great October Socialist Revolution. There was even a monument to the Big Lenin, drunk from the square in small, but militant workers. Kyivans were sorely explained to visit that the monument shows how Lenin was hiding for the working class. Then the monument was demolished, at the same time they removed round fountains, because of which the area was called "Roulette", and chestnuts cut down. And now on Independence Square – an underground city with fast food and shops, and from above such a porridge from styles and monuments that you will not discern without a guide. Arch, Globe, Monument to Kiu, cheek, Choriv and Libedy – still sinking than on Manezh Square in Moscow. Kyivans themselves on their Maidan uncompleteness prefer not to walk.
Come to Kyiv and not see a house with chimeras on a cannon street – this is a crime. You can not eat dumplings, but you can not see the house with chimers, one of the best samples of Kyiv Modern – for the sake of it one worth come to Kyiv. Architect Vladislav Gorodetsky built this house for himself. The legend says that on the dispute: he supposedly argued that it would be easy to build a house on a near-sheer slope of Pechersk Hills. Built: On the one hand, the house has three floors, on the other – six, and all living creatures are sprawling on the walls and roof – rhinos, frogs, elephants. Now the house with chimers is renovated specifically for the Ukrainian president. He will have a residence during the restoration of the Mariinsky Palace, so inside the house of Gorodetsky tourists not to get. Let them roam around, look at Ivan Franco Theater, but you never know what you can look in Kyiv.
Some kind of damn
Tourists collectors are specially arrived in Kyiv to wander through antique becks, which in the city are many. They are told even about some famous Kyiv Antiquard, to which "High guests", interested in antiques. He lives in a house built on his own project: old teapots and other unexpected items are made in the walls. He has, they say, you can find anything, even a church door. This story he often tells his guests: somewhere near Kyiv, the church was demolished in Soviet times, he looked-watched, almost crushed: artistic value – and demolished. Could not stand, took the door. He always finishes the story equally:"I do not understand, I stole her or, on the contrary, saved?".
Less broken connoisseurs of art go to St. Andrew’s descent: here you can buy a small set "For an expensive foreign guest" – from ruins to military uniform. Picturesque, especially if you consider that these flea markets are interspersed by exhibitions and sales of amateur paintings. As on Arbat, in general, but the place is more pressing: bright blue andreva church at the top, the humpback cobblestone under his feet, on the one hand – the salon dolls, on the other – the Bulgakov Museum in the house number 13. "Over a two-storey house number 13, the construction of amazing (the street of the turbine was in the second floor, and in the first, slightly, cozy courtyard – in the first), in the garden, that it was clogged under the coolest mountain, all branches on the trees became the laptops and marched. Mount hooked off the sheds in the yard, and the gigantic sugar head became". Even if you never go to museums at all and do not love Bulgakov, the Bulgakov Museum in Kyiv can not be missed. The house where the writer lived with parents from 1906 to 1919 and where the novel occurs "White Guard", became a museum in 1989. Guides, pronouncing the word "Bulgakov", become a hundred times more beautiful, and their eyes are burning with inadequate fire. Exposure where you can go from one room to another through a wall cabinet, ends with a fabulous terrible sleep, like "White Guard": "House on Alekseevsky Descent, a house covered with a white general hat, slept for a long time and slept warm. Sleepy Drema walked behind the curtains, drove in the shadows. Outside the windows, all the victorious student night and silently sailed over the ground. Stars played, shrinking and expanding, and especially high in the sky there was a star Red and five-pointed – Mars".
Lunch and tourist dinner
Tired of museums, attractions and historical excursions, you can even need to make yourself another Kyiv vacation – Culinary. Ukrainian cuisine is all that they can not afford the mannequins and fast food connoisseurs. Dumplings with potatoes (and on top of fried on top), fat, borsch (of course, with pampushki), a downtown diet (with a lot of butter inside) – here you do not hear the question like "Want to lose weight?". Who will go to Kyiv to lose weight? Even reading the descriptions of this food from Gogol, already fat.
But what dumplings that fat! The best piece of meat, cooked on this planet, with a cognac-cream sauce, served in Kyiv restaurant "Nobel", And the most unhurried, almost perfect coffee – not far from the Maidan inequishment, in a small coffee shop "Kaffa", where you can not smoke so that a rough tobacco smoke does not spoil sensations. There is a coffee shop for intellectual intellectual name "Baboon": here and coffee can be drunk, and read the book, and listen to music at night. But tourists most often drive into some "Intonian Ukrainian" Place it seems "Tsarist village" (unexpected name), where Ukrainian songs will sing the whole evening, and the chickens will confuse you to the vegetarian road. Although the food is real, Ukrainian, from the table fall off with the feeling that in the next few years no one will force you and close to the table. V "Lipa mansion" In no case, you can not miss the branded tincture – all who tried it, take a couple of bottles with me, so that in the gaming Moscow to warm up the Kyiv Sun. And, of course, "Kyiv cake", All of the meringues and nostalgia of flowering chestnuts. Eat in Kyiv can and teach you.
Another Kyiv – everyone has his own – the one that is remembered with the word "Kyiv". For someone it is Kyiv gardens (". And there were so many gardens in the city, like in any city of the world"). For someone it is a knock tram, sunny bunnies on the walls of houses from tram glass. For someone – a hem, where the houses are similar to Odessa and there is a fountain "Samson", from which the fate of the capital of Kyiv depends on the legend. Once there was a sacred spring, and it was believed that Kyiv would stand until water flows from the spring, and in the XIX century, a fountain was created in this place. For someone, your Kyiv is "Sunny streets in summer, and in winter it is not cold, not hard, large gentle snow", For someone – a river port, where you can sit on the stone fences of the pier, the shine of the legs in three meters above the water, and lay on the left bank. Someone immediately remember the lazy funicular, raising from the port to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs – a gloomy building with columns. Someone will reach Kashtan’s pocket, pushed on Kyivan Street, look at the old Kyiv postcard, re-read Gogol or Bulgakov: "The city is beautiful, the city is happy. Over the collapsed Dnipro, all in sunbursts".
You can leave from here, just nowhere you can get away from him. In the spring, the wind from the Dnieper will fall in winter and will call you back. Getnets. At least two days.