Sights of the North Caucasus: Landmarks on the fields

North Ossetia – Alanya – Green, Bright, Change. From suddenly plowed clouds can go rave with a hail, which will stop in ten minutes, and another hour the clothes will be almost dry. The main attractions of the republic – in the mountains, where countercases can not always be dispersed on cool turns.

Austan Assumption Male Monastery, Located at an altitude of 1300 m above sea level, stone bulbes are overgrown from all sides. This is the most high-mountain Orthodox monastery in Russia. What is noteworthy, outdoor recently, in 2000, although the history of Christianity in Ossetia has 11 centuries. The monastery began with two inocities that went to carry the service in the Caucasus, now ten monks, pilgrims and hardships live here. Externally, the abode resembles the classic Byzantine buildings. The goal has to climb the steep steps, but the view of the Kurthta Gorge is open. Go to the temple of the Iverskaya icon of the Mother of God, and then stroll along the nearby village of Upper Fiagdon.

From here the road leads to Karmadon Gorge. It can not be called very picturesque, this place has another fame – sad. 15 years ago, the ring glacier came down from the mountains completely fell asleep space 300-meter layer of ice and stones. More than 150 people became victims, among them the film crew Sergei Bodrov. Upstairs now there is an observation deck, and below, near the old car tunnel, where the rescuers were looking for surviving or their remains, a memorable board with a quote, which became epitaph: "If a person had to die, the one who loves him will not stop loving him" (from Letters S. Bodrov wife Svetlana).

According to the ancient rustic beliefs, the afterlife is a continuation of the earth, but only the sun for the dead shines at night. Therefore, visitors access to scleps Dargavs stopped after sunset. And from recently closed at all. Selfie against the background of skeletons and graffiti on the walls of the graves is pretty tired of indigenous residents. Each of the 95 tomb rests to hundreds of people. In times, when the epidemics of the plague and cholera watched whole settlements, the sick went here to die. They deserve peace.

But this is not a reason not to go to Dargavs. How not to see the stone towers pose in the rays of the sun with the branded mushroom roofs, do not silend? The lack of personal involvement is swimming wanderings around the cow and crazy views of the surrounding mountains, along which the fog is slowly sliding, changing the landscape for a moment.

Ingushetia

Better the mountains can only be the mountains on which there has not been.

To get to Ingushetia, you need to collapse from the military-Georgian road to the side of the village of Jarea. A few years ago in the jaciera district without skipping was not to get. Now it is enough to show a our passport on the checkp.

While the forgotten school literature lessons pop up in the head, all new mountains grow around, the clouds are drawn by the green canvas and somewhere in the embroidery. Here you just need to go and enjoy the species. Some places are equipped with viewing platforms with sheds, and in the district of Tsei-Loam, the cafe "Legends of the Mountains" will be discovered, where the hospitable hosts will not only be treated with delicious pellets, but also the incendiary dance will be.

Going to the Targim Basin, you will find yourself in the Middle Ages. Ancient stone towers are so inscribed in the surrounding landscape, which seems to be now the age of XVI.

Generic towers of Ingushetia – Unique, there are no other similar in the world. In the mountains, there is no place to farm, except that you can graze cattle than Vainakh since ancient times and were engaged. The raids of the militant neighbors were forced to be on guard, so the living space was not sewn, but up, and at the edges of the village, defensive towers were sure – the entrance to them was carried out on the sub-stairs and was at the second-third floor level. Later, the tower began to build immediately fighting and living at the same time. They had up to eight storeys, and each has been strengthened. On the first cattle housed and kept stockpiles, followed by live people (in those days, stone floors and walls covered with carpets and utensils and other necessary items were kept in wall niches). The upper floors have been observational, with loopholes and machicolations (machicoulis similar to small balconies; they are used to eliminate neprostrelivaemogo space at the foot of the wall). If the lower floors of the captured enemy, the family passed above. In the presence of reserves could hold out under siege for a long time, until help arrives.

Two towers watchdog complex Vovnushki on both sides of the gorge to protect the peace of the mountains. At the bottom of the river rocks rolling in Guloy-Hee. On the way to the complex do not miss the ancient Christian temple Thaba-Yerdy. His dating still is debate – possibly the oldest Christian church in the North Caucasus region, built in the XIII century. I reconstructed it several times, and each era to contribute. Here and Georgian ornaments and bas-reliefs poluyazycheskie. And next – already familiar vaults.

The village Egikal called the heart of Ingushetia – are crossing the road in Chechnya and Georgia. Tower complex Egikal – most affordable traveler. No less interesting Erzi village, where there are now nine fights and 22 residential towers, and tower complex Targim. for them the journey – not for one day.

Each tower had once belonged to a certain race. They erected hereditary builders on rocky grounds without basement. (Legend has it that the chosen place for the construction of first watered with milk. If it does not soak into the ground – so you can build.) But woe to that customer, on which the old sin of lying. Although the Ingush and were considered the best builders in the region, but they were building a tower to the sinner curve. He could ask for as much as necessary to correct and rebuild, but inclined generic tower remained with him through the centuries. At least so assure local.

Sights of the North Caucasus Notes on the fields

More about Ingushetia, scleps and blood revenge – in the reporting of the author "My Planet" "People of the Towers".

Chechnya

You, the Caucasus, the sowing king of the earth, I again dedicate the verse careless.

Grozny and his mosque. "The residence does not remove!"- a harsh man with a beard with a whole body flashes the view from the observation deck of the central Grozny Highness. For the opportunity to enjoy the hot steppe wind and panorama of the restored city will have to pay symbolic 100 rubles. With weapons (well, suddenly you have it) the entry is prohibited.

Walking along Grozny will show new residential and office neighborhoods, Terek, concluded in the shores of concrete, and blooming gardens. Those who have already happened here a few years ago, say that the harnesses began to smile. About the past reminds unless 32 pharmacies located within one (central) quarter. They rose from the tents of medical care, located sometime nearby. Night Grozny is very beautiful. And crowded. When the heat falls, the inhabitants go to playgrounds or in the park stroll and chat. A little strange to see instead of Starbucks Starcofe, and instead of McDonald’s – McDowell’s. Motorists are quite welcome and do not be angry on the crowd of sightseers, hung in the middle of the road on the red signal of the traffic light, and they are mashed by hand: go through, pass!

In 2008, the largest mosque in Europe was opened here – "Chechnya’s heart". She is really impressive. As an architectural basis, a blue mosque in Istanbul was used. Another mosque – "The Heart of Mother" – in the suburb of the Terrible Argun, is named after Aimani Kadyrov, Mother of the Head of the Republic. At first, she did not like it at first: too bold forms, modern materials, and who inhabited to call the abode of faith in honor of the woman! Nevertheless, the High-Tech style mosque is beautiful and amazing. Inside quiet, calm and beautiful. Bosy legs are buried in the eastern carpet, through the stained glass windows flowing soft light. Before the mosque, a small garden with a stream and fountains, in which the kids frolish in hot time. On August 23 of this year, the mosque was opened in Shali, and she already became the most significant on the continent. Monumental facility from white marble surround beautiful pink gardens.

In every of these mosques you can get. The entrance is equipped with clothes with clothes: here guests, dressed not on the ball, may pick up a long dress and headscarf. Shoes at the entrance should be removed.

Sights of the North Caucasus Notes on the fields

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