Salted wind from the sea
Green meadows and appleantic gardens of Normandy are beautiful when the wind from the North Sea brings on them a lightweight, pearl haze. The pale blue sky begins to remove pinkish tones, grass pigeon, and the brighter glow, like a burning sun, brighte-yellow flowering fields.
This region, who received his name, thanks to the aliens from the distant Scandinavia, a long time ago, a long-standing in these parts, amazing. Here Romanesque South Temperament enters a balanced union with northern phlegmatic prudence. Love here and love to have fun. Both do in moderation. And very love – however, as everywhere in France, it is delicious to eat and drink. The entire world is famous for the Norman Camembert (and the other and can not be, only Camembert, made in Normandy, has proud right to wear this name). Perhaps, only here the grass will satiate the moist air and the breath of the sea, and can become a wonderful drug, which then becomes obese Norman ladybugs in fragrant smelling morning meadow milk. Only here from local apples is possible to prepare bubbly, light, fruity taste with a lively cider. Only Norman cider may be named "Cidre". Like I "Calvados", the world famous apple brandy. And what are cookies!
Not to mention, of course, the notorious restrained, but equally worthy and heat Norman kindliness, of charming villages and towns with their Gothic churches, slate roofs and lots of cafes and bistros, where you can spend an hour or two of conversation and a cup of coffee or a glass "Calva".
But this region is inconceivable without the sea, without sea, on which the waves once arrived here the ancestors of the Normans. Beach Channel, "sleeves", This chain of cities and towns, ports and tiny harbors. Le Tréport, Dieppe, Fécamp, Le Havre, Honfleur, Cherbourg. There are people whose existence is not possible without the sea, without its salty breath. Now it is no longer severe sailors and corsairs past centuries. It is peaceful, hospitable people, accustomed to the fact that their home areas have become one of the favorite holiday destinations of Paris – from the capital to the coast just an hour drive from the small – and hundreds of thousands of tourists from many countries. But traditions are preserved. It is impossible to imagine the coast of Normandy without his fishing harbors.
Yes, this is no longer sailing barge, which went into the sea grandfathers existing fishermen. Today the boats are equipped with powerful engines, radio, and often on-board computers. But the sea is the sea. And until now, a fisherman, going out to fish, often brings a prayer for the safe return. And it is necessary to leave the harbor: fish – this is one of the sources of economic equilibrium Normandy. And just as once, early in the morning or afternoon thunder anchor chains and fly on board the ship ends, and fishermen, guided by a century of experience and professional intuition come to prey. To come back to the freshest catch. They are now often complain about: "The sea was not that the fish is less difficult to live. ". Perhaps they are right, it is better to know. Still, the return of the spectacle of boats and schooners to the pier, in the city’s harbor, strikes.
Again rattle chains, and fishermen, strong men with weather-beaten faces and hoarse voices, they begin to unload the catch. Usually in the port cities of Norman marina is located in the heart of the city: right on the border of the pier harmonious succession of old houses rising and seething city life. Dozens of shops, cafes, restaurants, thousands of tourists and anxious prazdnoslonyayuschihsya humdrum affairs of local residents. And then the fish market. Most of the catch and then go further from the sea – in Paris and other towns and villages of France. But part will be sold immediately, right at the splashing sea waves. It smells of the sea, the smell of fresh fish, heard cries of sellers. And it seems as if you are at the same time today – at the end of the twentieth century, and somewhere in the times of heroes "toilers of the sea" Viktor Hugo.
And what kind of goods! Not for me to describe the glittering fish scales, the mountains and the sea strata fruit laid out on ice, decorated with fresh herbs, these baskets with clams. All this must be seen.
Great our language, of course, is mighty and rich. But you have to be an ichthyologist to know the names of all these fish, fishes and fishes. Yes, and will help if the scientific names when you admire this abundance? Here and mackerel, and pinkish "russett", flat and gray, in a slightly orange speckled "salt", and silver and gold "Mulet", and fresh herring, and "turbot", and perch, pike and sea, and shirokoguby "Bar-de-mer".
There is an exhibition and sale of shellfish, the range is even more difficult to describe. Bags full of "Coquilles St. Jacques" – shells St. Jacob (it’s just our scallops). Braids, which decomposed on ice loving "bigurno", "cook", "palurd" and others "Clam" and, of course, mussels, clams, mussels and oysters, oysters, oysters.
The seller of fish on the spot at your desire to the gesture, worthy of David Copperfield, shares the sea creation you buy, will explain how to cook it well: "Still my grandmother did so" – And you, having amazed by the perfection of this fishing and market performance, go ravoashi to prepare "salt" (It seems that, in our opinion, this flabble is called "sole") So, as you advised Monsiera Paul or Monsiery Jean-Jacques.
And the outflow – again the anchor chains will begin again, and the Norman fishermen will go back to the sea for harvest. And again on the green meadows of Normandy will be a fresh and invigorating marine wind.