Polar bicycle Expedition 2020
The next summer and the next time to go to the meeting adventure to the extreme north.
In reports on "My planet" I already wrote about how to fall in love with the north and how this feeling was able to fix. It’s time to deepen our relationship again. And that’s how it was in 2020.
The idea in more detail to explore the Kola Peninsula came in the fall of 2019. Among the unaware sights remained such objects like Kola ultra-deep well (SG-3), the Swab road and the old abandoned railway "Apatity – Revda". These objects and served as the main points of the route "Polar VelotExpedition – 2020". And in the whole of this route perfectly fitted the Lovecharsk tundra and sederozero, to visit which would have to leave bicycles for a while. Therefore, the prefix "Velo-" From the name of the journey I had to exclude.
In immemorial docovid` More time planned approximately the following program in two parts.
– Arrival in Murmansk with full equipment and for cycling and for walking distance
– Output on the annular cycling route on bicycles
– Return to Murmansk and Dobroska by train to Olenegorsk
– Exit to cyclershut to Revda
– Leave in Revda somewhere bicycles and leave to explore the backer tundra on foot
– Back from the mountains, transfer to bikes and complete your trip to apatitis.
It was also thought out the possibility of staying participants in the journey partially: either on the first part, or on the second, or everything is completely depending on vacation.
The backbone of the group was formed in winter, the coronavirus realities did not touch him. But due to confusion with tickets for trains and the aircraft, the virus completely buried plans of possible participants to join us only on the second part. She had to abolish, but we only won the time in the program "in full"
In addition to the adjustment of the program due to the timetable of trains, the railway bridge across the Kola River: His simply washed off the summer floods. All these events have already called us a smile: "If this is going to start, then what will happen then during travel?".
Because of the special format of semi-autonomous journey, we additionally took with you:
1) Punch backpacks for the mountain part of the campaign
2) Trekking sticks
3) Trekking pair of shoes
4) Additional set of clothes for walking parts
5) stock of follaced canned (lighter and easier to recycle rather than tin cans) and sublimates of vegetables
All this was placed on a bicycle trunk with significant overload. But we had a Lifehak: all unnecessary on the first part of the thing we left in the storage chamber railway station in Murmansk. It greatly facilitated us.
The first day. Cheerful start.
Acquaintance of the participants of the group among themselves began on the train Moscow-Murmansk, following the changed schedule through St. Petersburg. During numerous travels on long-term train parking, Favorite "Points of attraction". In Petrozavodsk, a bakery served as a point "Becker". During the parking lot, you can take a slow step to bakery, buy various fresh pastries and coffee, and, also slowly, return to the car to enjoy the purchase. In St. Petersburg – it was coffee from McDonalds, and in Murmansk. And we did not reach Murmansk =)
The route for the participants of the Polar Expedition began at lunchtime at the weekend station. It is here that there is a transplant of train passengers to buses who bring people to the train station.
Shipping 10 bikes to buses for us was not very convenient and we decided to the next maneuver: three participants with their bicycles and common "Lish" Equipment we sent by bus to Murmansk Station. While they pass things for walking part of the trip to the storage room, the remaining 7 people are slowly going, the necessary products are purchased and put forward to the meeting.
After an hour, the band united before leaving the Kola Bridge and continued his way towards Vernetulovsky. Initially, the relief was with large differences of heights and for the first day it was too sharp. After lunch, the height differences stopped being tangible, and before the place of the night on the Tuloma River near the HPP we got no problem.
After setting the camp, the very heavy rain poured – it is completely busting to start a trip. Girls were hidden on the tents, abandoning dinner. I had to take the kitchen on yourself and serve girls "Dinner in bed". Some crosses with all this cheer of the beginning opened "northern" Bathing season. 86 kilometers drove 86.
Second day. Cross-border areas.
The first day with its weather whims found us surprise, and therefore we were prepared for the passage of the second day. During breakfast, a fire was divorced and dried off. It was worth it, at least leaving the camp slightly.
According to plan, it was about 70 kilometers on the highway "Lotta" before turning to nickel and, in fact, roll from her. The road was embossed, but not difficult. On the way staged lunch.
On the development of us I was waiting for the border control. Cried our passports, phone numbers of managers and those who operated megaphone. All other telecom operators have worked satisfactorily only in large settlements. After border control, the road has become strongly gaining height. The quality of asphalt fell. Noked on the lake on the sandy shore, which did not even expect. The weather was significantly better, did not fall under the rain.
Third day. From complex to complex.
Sometimes there are periods in life when every next day is heavier than the previous one. And this day was no exception in our expedition, which only gained momentum.
After ordinary morning daverie, we went to the route. More kilometers 10 We gained the height (this is a plus to the set of the previous day). And then the asphalt suddenly ended, but the set of height continued and continued. The dirt road, as it believes, was killed in a trapping "Jeepers" and career trucks. Fortunately, the Grader and Levley worked on the way "Washing board".
Lifting on the soils sucking forces already by the middle of the day. For lunch, they stopped on the Pechenga River, no remarkable river with crystal clear water.
But after lunch, stretching into the passage along the soils, asphalt suddenly appeared. That is, the road (if you look at the meeting) leads from nickel to the mountain and everything. And the end, and there you want. This pass and asphalt we peeking out pictures of Yandex.cards for a very long time to at least somehow cheer up in this difficult day. With the pass was a protracted descent to nickel. On the way drove to waterfalls.
In the city we met the local resident Alexey and border guards, who were already waiting for us. Border guards as always interested "Where to keep the way", And as always and do not know what to answer, since for the first time in these parts. And the approximate route we have told them on the border-proof on the eve. Alexey suggested to us a great place for the night and even dismissed on his car (in order to guard their strength) to the type of store "Fishing and hunting" For procurement of additional gas cylinders. And he also shared with us with two routes to the Kola superhong, with which we, in turn, did not share with the referees, that the next day added the peppercons on the journey!
Day four. Kola ultra-dust well (SG-3)
This day began with the phrase "Today, the bicycle expedition only begins". And this despite the fact that we needed to drive some 50 km on asphalt with a slight deviation toward one of our main goals – Kola ultra-deep.
On that day, the task is maximum – to have time during the peak of a low tide, which accounted for 20-00, move the river to Kurioki Vyod and swell at the beginning of the route on the Swab road. The task is at least – to swell in front of the river and go Vyod during the morning.
Impossible mission does not exist. There is only a leader’s order. And I need it!
The first 3 kilometers from the start is the warm-up 6% rise on the road to the detour of nickel. Then another 20 km on the plateau. Well, and then turn on the soils to the side of the ultra. On the horizon, the highcase, which, sometimes, above the Kola horses themselves. The scale of mineral development is amazed.
The road suddenly led us to "rubble". Employees are bred by their hands, they say before "Road next" on SG-3 was here, and now, they say, no. We managed to upset until they began to explore the terrain for alternative paths. And this is what we were surprised: found "That is the road", She was littered with stones to "did not go there all sorts". It will definitely stop us. And then this road also suddenly rolls this very "rubble". And it became visible only from the height of heat.
WITH "Crusta crater" We arranged the attack "Bicyclealpinism" and climbed to the remnants of the destroyed road, after which they ran into the sunset to the Kola ultraglible. Career workers were in shock!
Overcoming all obstacles in the form of diluted roads, we got to Kola ultra-deep. As in other abandoned objects, the spectacle is quite depressing. Full destruction, garbage, rust and broken windows. Fortunately, the lid of the well itself did not refuse the garbage.
Here is such a small. Man fall there can not, the sounds of hell can not hear. Although someone’s nuts wanted twisted, raids face. Either they were torn specifically to "tourists" There was no possibility to unscrew.
After walking in the stalker style, we went to the Polar. Through all these careers and groundcons to go all the kilometers five. But the road turned out to be a closed territory of the plant, circle protection. I had to return the reference.
As soon as they caught the connection – calls from the border guards were sprinkled: "We lost you". And so they called us until we did not rinse in the Polar, and then in Pechenga. As it turned out later border guards pass our contacts from one "authorized border guard" to the other and up to the title until we leave the border area.
In Pechenge, by crossing the river Kakurioki, we turned out to be ahead of the scope. So with the limit itself not really rushing. But after the brow, they decided to put a camp from sin. And then suddenly the tide will be strong. The day turned out to be super saturated, drove 86 kilometers.
Fifth day. Swab road.
Swab road. This is the second main goal after SG-3 of our first part of the journey. This day pampered us the sun. If you hide behind the hill from the wind, then it even seal. Per day we have a good burned face.
Telling details about this day is very difficult. On the Swabian road you just need to visit. These are endless tundra, crystal clear lakes, no person, rare animals and a dilapidated German road infrastructure. Transfer the atmosphere photos and only partially. Place them a lot in this report – not approved. But you can find in social networks of the project Velomarshrute.RU.
Per day drove about 60 km, but tired of a hundred. Overnight arranged on the HPP of Titovka.
Day of the Six. Day off.
On this day, we completed the first part of our journey and dedicated to rest. Although according to the plan, we had two options: to go to Murmansk 100 kilometers with our own way or request evacuation by car, as we did in 2018 during the first Polar VelotExpedition.
Most voted for cars. Before lunch, we enjoyed the sun, and then – they were held on the train participants of the first part of the journey, took things for walking part of the trip from the storage chamber and settled in the hostel.
And there, taking advantage of the case, charged the gadgets, were detained, laundered, seated and just rested. There was still a week of no less complex routes.
Seventh day. Start of the second part of the journey.
The beginning of the second part of our bicycage campaign. Global task – to drive from Murmansk to Olenegorsk, then collect bicycles and order to condemn to Revda, from where we are driving to the exclamation tundra. And on returning again sit down on bicycles and rubber ways Right in Apatity.
Early rise, breakfast and departure to the station. In contrast to the train "Arctic" St. Petersburg train went from Murmansk Station, and not from the output station. But on the change of locomotives and the turnover of the composition still lost more than half an hour. Managed to even dine on the way not to spend time on the route.
In Olenegorsk arrived on schedule. Immediately collected bicycles and moved to Revu. Height differences here are still significant, but the landscape has changed significantly – the trees are noticeably "grained" And they became diverse.
In the evening they put in Revu. The city from the Soviet past, in which nothing happens. Purchased products and moved for overnight for the next lake. The weather is still not stable, the forecasts are disappointing, but we could not retreat from the route.
Day eighth. Sturm Lovozerski TundR
"This day was not simple", – Almost all the remaining participants of this exciting journey agreed. And it was the longest day of our expedition.
After collecting the camp, we went to the hotel to leave there for responsible storage of bicycles and other equipment that we do not need in the mountains. The weather was called cloud with strong gusty wind, drizzled rain. And this, in turn, promised us a lot of surprises at the height.
Just in case, have left a notification of the route to the Ministry of Emergency Situations. By the way, on the eve of procurement, the local people began to tell the bikes about the bears and about 30 tourists who were not returned from the mountains. Not that it scarecrow us, but there are different cases.
Climbing into the cloud, visibility fell to 20 meters. Suddenly out "Tuman" Single tourists appeared and, even, SUV. For several hours of mountain weather disgrace, we managed to take the highest dots of the excuser (Allauyiv, Kedykvarpachk, Agnvdaschorr), dine on the rocks, get under the rain, hail and even snow. Rolled the idea that we will not see the endless lunar scenery of the Lovemers TundR.
When the snow finally sues us, we decided to shorten the route and reset the height to exchange a snowy storm on the rain. For the history of our mountain walks developed a rule "In the mountains it is impossible to cut". You can pay time or health. We adhere to it so far.
But the experience of hibin and our current position on "plateau" The excuser gave us a chance to truly cut and without unnecessary risk for themselves. We risked. As a result of the departure from the trail of our route, we went to the Gorge of the Rourniy River and started the descent to Seydizer. Here for the first time discovered gorgeous types of babes, and a few hours accompanied us for a rainbow.
To meet us the first organized groups of tourists. Overnight arranged on "Polyana", not far from "Memorial" dead skiers from Belarus.
A day passed 30 kilometers with a total height set of more than 1 km.
Ninth day. Piece of paradise on earth.
The second walk on the bail tundra. From the morning, the weather did not indulge us, but the thought was warming about what’s there, on top, it is snow, and we have no.
There was no way out to sederome in various types of maps, which means you have to go on unknown paths or, more worse, stupidly in azimuth. The group met yesterday managed to share with us information that these 3 kilometers will not be very simple that the trail is often lost and that there will be a difficult forest.
At the expense of the forest and the trails, they did not lie. By the way, in the forest we successfully hid from the wind, the vegetation changed to such "Northern tropical". Many humidity, huge ferns and Ivan tea. Closer to "swamps" The trail turned to the right and we trusted her.
Through the molds, swamps and dozens of improvised bridges and crossing, we went to the southern coast of Seydizer. For dinner, the weather cleared up, the participants took off raincoats, on the trail began to regularly appear on the heads of tourists. Meet people on the trail around Seydizer in this coronavirus year – it’s how to stroll through Arbat in Moscow.
By the way, about berries. Blueberries and lingonberry – wagons, but still the berry has not yet matured. But a few cloudberries met and "Green" and ripening. Very specific berry. We agreed on the opinion that the most suitable of cloudberries is a tincture on cloudberry.
The camp was put on the shore of the lake, the most brazing batches in it. But most importantly – in this evening we managed to divorce an excellent bonfire and dried things! It was a piece of paradise on earth!
Day tenth. Little joy of the Great Sun.
It was the most saturated and joyful morning walking.
Joyful because he dried all things. And on this day, it was understood that very soon we would carry the loss of equipment in the form of worn and burnt socks, and in the form of wounded bers and trekking boots. But there are still two past days ahead, spare shoes with bicycles in the hotel, so you will have to go to the end.
Saturated because we were waiting for another former and there was a possibility again.
On the approach to Brod, we shot down a little from the route, and the path of us brought to a swamp with a cloudberry. I had to stay a little on it for gastronomic delights!
On the way to the swamp, by the way, we met a big bulk bunch on the road. ". Pile of purple color with impressions of undigested berries". The idea that they had a friendly tourists, holding hands, immediately disappeared. Internet access was absent, only he probably could confirm we "Traces of bear". So I had to go to two days "Pass with internet" And resent. But all the signs inclined to the fact that it "True Medveda". As it turned out – we did not make a mistake.
And then there was a brod, island and bridge. It was easily overcame to robbies (from one lake to another) in "Akvashuzakh". It is very useful to have shale, crocks or cororl slippers for this kind of obstacles.
The bridge from one log asked noticeably over the years of its existence. "Perila" shaky and stepped on it accounted for very and very carefully. But some global blinks did not happen on it. If you do not count the time on the photo.
After Brod, we went to the swamps through which the wooden flooring brought us to Cordon. Cordon – the only place that gives the opportunity to drive up closer to Seydizer. We do not exclude that it is also used by the Ministry of Emergency Situations for the evacuation of the affected. This idea came later when we sat down again on bikes.
Here and started "Arbat". Tourist crowds. Crowd! Grandpa, Grandparents, Aunt, Uncle, Children, Grandchildren. That’s what "quarantine" Makes with man. While all of our friends "Hotel" They laid out the same pictures from the Crimea, we were shocked from the influx of tourists in such severe and wild places.
By the way, the day was 100% solar and clear. On this day, we decided to close as much as possible to the Elmorayak pass, to take bicycles from the hotel the next day to dinner, move the lake to the familiar to us and arrange half the months. The pathway on the northern coast was not easier in spite of most popular among tourists. Again there were numerous improvised bridges .
During the day, 15 kilometers passed and jammed right under the pass.
Eleventh day. Polyunes.
This walking day began with the assault on our final pass of Elmorayok, behind which there was a vacation, bicycles, shops and the Internet =)
Approximately 5 kilometers of mountain tundra and we are in the territories of the Lovozersky Gok. 10 km on the way – and we take our bikes from the hotel. These remains went on foot, because there are no public transport, only buses for the staff of the plant.
They took bikes from the hotel, drove to the lake, put the camp and staged a half-day with all the fallated swimming pool and commercials. And even driven to the store for procurement of provisions for two final days of the entire expedition.
We were glad and at the same time not happy to the Internet.
Day twelve. Another endless day.
He came out endless because we got up before usual and because it was planned to drive most (about 70 km) from the remaining 120 kilometers along the route "Revda – Apatity" on an abandoned railway.
When preparing this part of the route, many different "Reports" all sorts of jeepers and other quad bikes that no help do not know how to move. But no one was found "Report" from cyclists. Although the owner of the hotel, where we kept bicycles, we were told that this road from cycling students is popular. Our logic is simple: if the car erupts – it means that we. Moreover, the railway is always a smooth road horizon.
After starting 10 kilometers, we drove along the aspal road, which led to another Goku. Fine! It means there are only 60 km of railway.
Then almost 10 km of the dirt road, which led parallel to the railway. Her quality was very good, until a certain point when it began to pour out big puddles. So by rail to go only 50 km. Better!
In the end, we went out on the mound of an abandoned railway. No rail, sleepers fit out your age. To the left and right of the sleepers – the paths for which we moved to our coveted finish. Cons of these paths – branches from the curb, which are still lying to hit the face. Less often – sand and crushed stone, which slowed down the movement.
There were moments when the sleepers were bored with us, we returned back to the primer. For a variety. But strongly dropped quality of the road again forcibly challenged on w / d-canvas. We stopped rigging and dinner on the territory of the Punch guest house rolled up. Although a couple of fermen on the road we collected. Where without them in the expedition?
It remained about 10 km to October, as we started breakdowns. From this superdoroga cut off the screw fastening of the trunk at one of the participants. Spent at least 30 minutes to cast the trunk with another participant.
So far repaired, met two guys on quad bikes. They were rescuers from the Ministry of Emergency Situations. But today they have a day off, and they drove deep into the peninsula to throw their provisions into Kola Kaywa in order to spend their future vacation. The conversation they began with greetings and the question of registering the route in the Ministry of Emergency Situations. Professional deformation =)
Then they told us that their colleagues of someone dragged (tourists, meaning) from the excuses of the tundra with injury. It would seem: how can I get injured? Mountains are just elementary. But no! Cases are different. Do not neglect the registration in the Ministry of Emergency Situations.
I wanted to learn more about their work, but, unfortunately, they returned back to our route – one of them lost a jacket with navigators and other values.
These guys, we learned about a more or less convenient place under the camp. The final night was on the stormy river Ubba. Almost all the heroes of this trip focused on it.
Thirteenth day. Finally the end.
The final day of all this unforgettable disgrace. On this day, we do not need to hurry anywhere.
The most important thing in the plans was to get to Apatit and sit on the evening train to Moscow. We were already in the city. And then the plans went on the principle "What I want, then". Lunch in cafe? Please! And then Banku? No problem! =)
Before departure, purchased products on the road. Even managed to screw up a dozen eggs right on the platform. I really missed them!
And then approximately 30 hours of rest, communication and understanding of the past. Total driving on a bike 600 km, went on foot 80 km
Instead of results.
Another bike trip over the North of Russia has passed on a bang! North of any of the participants left indifferent. Everyone was delighted and crazy about what is happening!