Plateau Ennedi
Canyon, where we stopped, was formed exclusively for love, efforts of wind, sun and water. Just from great love can be born such masterpieces.
How old is these rocks? Their age is determined by millions and millennia. Those 2 thousand. years after the birth of Jesus, silent clocks simply did not notice. What is there to talk about our appearance ..
Rocks and Mountains live their lives, incommensurable with a term for man.
In the morning there was an interesting case. In order to wash and put yourself in order, the chefs put out for us in the evening a large water canister and five to six bowls. If we divide the garlic, the tourist had one cup in the evening, the other in the morning.
What morning happened a curious case. The upper bowl was lying a little side and because someone from the guys, taking her, did not notice in the lower huge spider. The poor, clogging into the gap, hiding from the wind and go away is not going.
Women refreshing, and here spider: black, shaggy, sizes with a good baby cam. Shadow such an apple to a female tent – pisch and squealing would be to all sugar!
I also shake him and shake him, he clung to his paws – I will not leave and all. I, of course, dismantled the basin, for which I received from women – thanks, but the fight for two minutes spent.
With all the apparent idyll of Plateau Ennedi, sugar is a desert and therefore everything is alive, be it plants, or animals with insects, in their formations are fighting with each other. After breakfast, we collect camp. The wind did not calm down, trying to pick up and carry something loy.
At first I was catching up with a T-shirt, then the package, then something else, but in the end I did not lose anything. Probably the wind simply did not understand how and why we leaving such beauty and therefore tried to delay.
When all things are assembled, go further, realizing that I will never return here.
Reliek came to spend us. One of them, in the morning, shouted so that he drove the gusts of the wind. Now, having met a girlfriend, he behaved quietly.
Returning to yesterday’s village. Hearing the noise of arrived cars, from the house it comes out, no, rather crashes an ancient old old man. Drivers come into conversation with him. He sees very badly and therefore relies on the grandson.
Cooks from a technical jeep planted. An old man with a child is sitting in their place, after which we go along the route with the whole column.
Next, it turns out, grandfather is not just a grandfather, and local sheikh. His community belongs to Gelt, where the surrounding shepherds drives on domestic water water. Use water allowed to everyone, but the queue must be compliance. If disputes arise – sheikh decides them.
Here you need to explain what Gelta is – translated from the Arabian "puddle; pond; Rocky water ". Special form of natural reservoirs in the north of Africa (Sugar Desert). Helt may be relatively slowly evaporating a huge puddle in mostly dry wadi, formed as a result of abundant rain, and water filled with water. Natural recess in the rocks.
There are also constantly filled with water Gelta. In our case, it was a kilometer canyon, referred to as Gelta Baxhal, something similar to Omani Wadi Shaab.
Like Rustam and Sukhrab look at each other, high cliffs. Their brown bodies are perfectly polished, at the foot, like grass, grow some special trees, occurring only here.
Water comes from a spring leaving for the surface somewhere around the twist of the rock. Going to her, we rest in a dead end, do not go further.
Looking at the underlying trunks, on the roots of the roots, the groove was turned on at the bottom of the cliffs, you can imagine how terrible to be here during a shower. Water on the canyon rushes into the valley, estimated on the way absolutely everything.
Any river must fall into the river, and the river in the lake or to the sea. If such does not happen, the fate of the water flow in some way is sad. Water in the Hell of Baxhele on the canyon goes a good smooth stream, approaching the open space stops, it is drunk at the outlet, turning into a puddle and goes into the sand. It is involuntarily asked the analogy with human destinies.
However, I don’t want to think about sad. Immersed in their thoughts, we were silent, admiring the beauty. Somewhere on top shouting baboons, poultry sang them.
River, quietly Zhurch, Istroved Ryabyu in the sun and after having fun hiding in the shadow. Suddenly I heard the approaching roar and washed. Sounds picked up the echo and the canyon them filled from the wall to the wall.
The camels themselves were not visible, but the hopot and soap. Finally, because of the turn it seemed a herd, slow and proudly.
Going closer and seeing strangers, animals tightened and stopped. Boys drifts whipped someone. Camels rushed forward.
Shepherds brought the wards to the widest place and provided themselves. Those started drinking water, but not with greed, but with dignity.
My attention is attracted funny white baby. And so and Syak, I tried to get closer to take a picture of the baby. It would seem camels Animals are not very smart, but my Moon Mommy has solved each time, closing the dietary bodies.
Especially plump male shepherd tied to another camel in such a way that they could only walk together.
Alas, such a hooligan did not stop. He fled there, then he turned here, exhausting accomplices. We wanted to photograph against the background of herd, so he rushed right on us and the partner dragged. Thank God, to bounce managed, but his intentions were by no means friendly.
I had a package with toys from kinder surprises and I gave all this wealth of cowgirls.
When we walked back, so that they were shedding, the children called me and began to ask signs, what kind of wonders?
Among the toys were: Mole-sunkoskos, dolphin, lion, bunny and the like. It would seem very near the zone of the Sahel, but the children did not know the horse. I depicted how the mole roets underground moves, how the dolphin is swimming, as the bunny jumps and how the lion bite …
I doubt that the boys understood me, but looked with interest. Nomads Tuba in schools do not learn. By law, each family is obliged to give one child to school. Similar, on many reasons, is rarely executed.
But the chumased kid that accompanied Sheikh, receiving a rubber pirate as a gift, immediately figured out what and to the toy in the literal sense clung to.
When we brought the grandfather and grandson to the village, the drivers gave the sheikh old shoes, as well as the eye ointment, showing how to rub it.
Not fair our world! People on the Plateau Ennedy live in the middle of amazing beauties!
But poverty is simply shrinking. Local houses or ordinary round, isolated from bricks and covered with straw roof, or they are an oblong wooden frame, covered with mats.
According to Hassan, underground waters are not deep, and therefore the local people do not know thirst. Live at the expense of animal husbandry. Some grass use from plant food. They are collecting, knocking into a bowl of seeds and baked bread. Later I asked to show me this weed. Without tears on her seeds do not take. What is there bread …
On the other hand, it is precisely on such examples that the primitive people first domesticated animals, bandaging them, as not to moderate camels, the front leg, and after, settled in place, moved to farming.
Why homemade raspberries larger than forest? Everything is simple: people naocked in the forest, ate berries and went to the exhaust place. After returned to the old parking lot and saw that raspberries and fruits were growing on the spot ..
We again go through the valley framed cliffs, we shake on the bumps, without ceasing to admire the species. In the usa I was not and therefore I can’t compare with the monument valley, although my fellow travelers claim that they are similar.
But I was in Libya. Rock Array Akakus on Ennedi is like and nevertheless he is another. Here the mountains and remains are stronger and powerful, while the decay process began on Akakus.
And yet, in my ideas, in the National Parks of the West, where you can drive up to the sights on a good highway, you do not feel like a discoverer. Here, such a feeling is present, filling the heart by proudly joy. You could, you got here, you are among those few who saw it.
Going ahead Hassan slows down. His maneuver repeat the rest. In truth, I didn’t understand where we were brought. I jumped out of the car, peering into the distance, admired the panorama of the valley and the hanging blue sky, without guessing, which is the most amazing – on the other hand.
Arch Aloba (Aloba Arch) Having a height of 78 meters, is the second in the world, after Reinebo Bridge in Utah, USA. Afar the scale of the design is not aware. Everything falls into place when you approach her.
Such masterpieces are preferably not only to see. Supreme pilot attack to such creation with hand. But how, as such huge gates were able to form?
Erosion leading to the formation of rock arches takes place in all rocks. The sandstones and limestone are most susceptible to her, since these breeds are faster than others destroy under the influence of water and weathering.
A crack is formed from the day and night temperatures. Millennium and century go to its expansion and framing.
Passing under the Arch of Alba, I involuntarily raised my head up, trying to present in her place twenty-five-storey house.
How much the newest, the most modern skyscrapers of the Dubai Emirate? Maximum 150, well, let even 200 years. Next will begin to wear the design. By the standards of the Earth, this is about!
Comparison of the creations of nature and man are inappropriate. Looking at the pressed arrays of sandstone, unwittingly want to be silent as a sign of respect, in order not to break peace and the sleep of the Atlantov, holding the sky, caught his blue glaze with their own arms.
To my great unfortunately, the contemplation of the sublime prevented the lowland, called herbal Cralim.
A year before that, I visited the neighboring Niger, where it was pretty thoroughly met with this herb. She was a pinching reicker, clinging for clothes. But that was at the end of September.
Now the cramps are still dry in the sun, as a result of which their seed boxes turned into real spines, not just clinging for the fabric – the provam-cramps were dug into the sole and if such was thin, pour leg.
Plateau Ennedi is an object of hard to reach and little visited. About 500 tourists arrive here. Now in tea calmly and what will happen tomorrow is not known. So it turns out that for tourism Plateau Eden is a real exotic, whereas for local exotic we.
Returning to the car, we found that women with children came to look at us. They recognized their benefit from communication with foreigners. Having settled in the shade with her souvenirs, women offered them for sale.
Leather Tubes, old beads and wicker dishes were pretty primitive and therefore none of my comrades bought anything. Ladies upset and photographed flatly refused. We, clearing the soles from the barns, got rushed by cars and went on.
Dinner approached, we needed to stop somewhere. Drivers found familiar to them place, in the shadow of high rocks.
I go, I study the area: vertical cliffs and arranged from their foot. After happy I am watching the cooks are preparing lunch.
Having bought, drink tea, for a while we just fall on the mat, rest.
There would be enough impressions for two or three trips.
But this amazing day was not at all going to end.

The next stop was the playground near the arch – Elephant.
Opposite her in the vertical wall at an altitude of 15 meters, the gaping of deepening, as if specially painted under holes and under squares.
Hundreds of thousands of years, they will also become an elephant who is an elephant, and can alone in a single stone gate.
Seeking cars and again go somewhere. The driver of Abakar in English did not speak, and because it will be next, I did not understand.
The Mountain Array of Ennedi consists of many parts spreading on hundreds of square kilometers up to the border with Sudan, and uninteresting places here are simply no.
The next stop has become a prime confirmation. The place was called Terek, it is known to the cave, where the ancients left the rock paintings.
The cave is a balcony covered by a visor and hanging over the plain. It’s not difficult to get there. Apparently, it is this fact that the apartment has become determining.
Ancient people were engaged in economic activities. In the rock surface remained notes for water.
Here you can see a rectangular stone with a wounded deepening. Most likely on it, the grain.
Moving along the so-called balcony,
We are here, then there were rock paintings.
You could have been free to approach something, while to other drawings had to be seamless, flexing into three deaths.
In most cases, artists depicted a horse or a single one, or with a rider, and the cavalryman was armed with a spear.
Somewhere the images barely appeared, somewhere there were a lot of them and they were clearly visible. The artist has long been not long on this light, and its elegant horses, drawn by the red okra, everything will jump and jump ..
How many years drawing? There is no clear answer. Maybe a thousand, and maybe three thousand years. At the specified period, the climate of the planet once again changed. It became warmer and sugar from blooming and fertile land, turned into a desert.
Most of the modern theories of the birthplace of a modern man are called Africa. People here were born and periodically disperse from here in the world. And yet the appearance of a person is a real mystery. The present theory prevails in the present:
Comparison of polymorphisms of mitochondrial DNA and dating fossils allow you to conclude that Homo Sapiens appeared ok. 200,000 years ago (this is an approximate time when Mitochondrial Eva lived – a woman who was the last common ancestor of all the living people on the maternal line; the overall ancestor of all the living people in the father’s line – "Y-chromosomal adam" – lived several later).
In former times, he was constantly writing that Homo Sapires, as far as Developed, the head became more, and, as a result, the brain increased. Now studying and reading, you find the opposite. We remained approximately such as 200 thousand. years ago.
In a word, more questions than answers. Scientists first put forward one theory, it starts to dominate, but after the scientific community, it refutes it together, as former science, and now forbidden false teaching – Rasology.
I personally think if you are not a scientist, then you shouldn’t bother your head. It is better to perceive the world at the level of pictures. So, thinking about the past, from the first cave on the inner aisle we went to the second. She comes out on the other side of the mountain.
According to Hasan, here you can see the largest cow of Africa, of course in the form of petroglyph. In order to take a picture of it, you have to go to the floor.
If horses prevailed in the first apartment, then people with spears were dominated here (apparently hunters) and cows. I repeat, sugar in the previous years was not at all the desert. Different nations with a similar culture lived here. Similar drawings I have seen in Libya, in the rocky array Akacus, which is adjacent to Eden.
When we went here, I remember that a woman jumped out of the house. She swung her hands and screaming something. I thought to sell something wants, or drivers welcomed. Without driving speeds, we slipped further and I forgot about it.
Descend from the cave to the sinful land, where instead of tropical flowers, which admired the ancients, grow the crammers, and we see that the most girl. She ran a kilometer three or four, in order to hurt up arrogant tourists (to get into the Cave of Tereki, you need to purchase a ticket). Souvenir sellers tightened.
Here you need to mention another interesting point. When we parted in the morning with Sheikh, he showed Hassan a round stone with a hole that resembles a donut. Clearly, grandfather stone did not blame him, he found him. The form is interesting, but at that moment I somehow did not exit. Well, you never know in the light of amazing stones …
The coming man again showed about the same stone. Estimated effort so that it is not clear why the locals will not turn the blank. After a triple translation, I asked where the stone came from. In response heard that the round was found in the sand. They are often found here, but what it is, no one knows.
I became interested. For facial expressions, like Sabina Pantus, I define, Visavi does not lie and decide so unusual souvenir to buy.
Seeking the cars and again we shake on the primer. Cave Tereki remains behind.
In half an hour, we make a new stop, on this day the last. As further, it turned out, the camp is broken at this place quite often. The foot of the cliff does not blow so much.
Only we put the tents, a girl appeared and laid out her souvenirs. I looked with interest, gave a small cado, but nothing became buying.
So bright impressive day ended. Over the mountains and deserts hung night – black and star.
