Myanmar. Tribe PAO
Modern Myanmar inhabit the representatives of more than one hundred nations and tribes. Among them and monos, and chains, and ranks, and Karen, and Kaya. There is a place in this long list for representatives of PJSC. Ten years ago, many of them consisted in the rebel detachments that provided armed resistance to the ruling regime. The struggle of the people of PJSC for independence has already subsided, then flashes with a new force. In the 93rd between the Government of Myanmar and the rebels, an agreement was signed. PJSC received internal autonomy and for the period of recovery of destroyed farm Province Release from taxes. The partisans changed the machine guns on the hoes and calmly work. Fortunately, the central government, formally subordinating PJSC and waters in each village of the national flag of Myanmar, lost all interest in this God forgotten region.
The village with a short, pleasing our ear name is like – a typical settlement of PJSC. Several dozen bamboo huts standing on piles, swinging roofs, wind trepot underwear on ropes – ordinary rustic landscape. The towel on the head at the local Madonna is not a bath affiliation, but a part of the female traditional costume. PJSC believe that their ancestors were Queen Cobra. In time immemorial, she put an egg from which the first person hatched on Earth. The headdress of the paos woman is a symbolic hood of a snake queen – a sign that his owner gives life.
Kakka lives a little more than a hundred people. Day in the village Aquarium silence – all in the field. Only two restless roosters violate it, which can not be divided among themselves a beautiful naew. Grow PJSC main garlic. Garlic spirit impregnated everything around. We were already far from the village, but I was still haunted by this smell. The only technique here is the hoe and bamboo bucket for watering, the only fertilizer is manure.
Ken Mo did not leave like a birth, and when it was – not remember. Looking at him, it can be assumed that he saw another living Buddha. Something suggested me that Ken Mo with a gun can contact no worse than with a hoe. But my questions did not lead to anything – the grandfather only knew the cigara-charmoute – a self-craft of bamboo leaves, packed cheap tobacco. "Judite? What would I start to take a weapon?"
Without achieving anything from older, we decided to ask the local teacher. The path from the house of the old man brought us to the sidelice right to the school building. Walking here children start almost from one year old. Just to leave them at home is not with whom, and parents, going to the field, entrust their concerns of teacher Taine Wine. Tain Wine turned out to be a man open and welcomed. After the lesson invited to visit him, and we went to another end of the village, where his hut is standing. Tain Wine, Teacher: "When there were rebels here, we lived like a desert island. No connection with civilization. To the city had to walk through the forest. I then also worked as a teacher. Once a month went to the city, for the salary. Hours six in one direction".
After signing the peace agreement to the village laid an asphalt road. Now, sit down in the car and go where you want. True, on the twirl, harmful buffaloes – and this is the main type of transport, – will not leave. Asphalt road – the only sign of civilization in today’s Kakka. Everything else remains, as it was: No television, there is no radio. Newspapers are sometimes brought, but they are all on Burmese, which PJSC understands hard. They have their own tongue.
The house of the rural teacher does not differ from other houses in the village. The floor calculated on the subtitle pavosets, under our weight, creaked plaintively, though. Entering the house, shoes need to be left behind the threshold. The fact is that the time of the centuries all the home stream of life PJSC occurs on the floor. They have no chairs, nor tables, no beds – they are sitting, take food and sleep solely on the floor. Therefore, walking here in shoes – it’s like walking in shoes in bed or dining table.
The guest is first to pour tea, and only then they offer to sit on the mat. Tayne wines: "Life more or less improved. But everyone, of course, have their own worries … how many years there is a teacher here, and most in the village continue to believe that this is from normal work. They say: you can plow on you, and you will be with a kidny day". For the works of its Tain Wine receives a monthly three and a half thousand whiff. This is a little less than four dollars. Only versioning on the Buddha, the image of which is here in every home can be lived with such money.
Like a couple – the main shrine of PJSC. Nye May, guide: "It’s a very ancient pagoda. It is also called Vek-couple, from the word "Vek" – Vepr. Long-time residents of one of the surrounding villages saw wonderful light, pouring out of the ground, as if the Buddha himself pointed out that treasures were hidden here. But all attempts to turn them to nothing. And then wild bole came out of the forest. He ruined the ground with hooves, and people were able to get treasure. On them and the temple was erected". Build on this holy spot stuv – the greatest happiness for any PJSC. Gradually, the number of stories surrounding the temple grew, and now they are numbered 2 478. Nye May: "Just one glance at this grand architectural complex to understand – created his people who have the right to be proud of its history".
Unlike past today, the people of PJSC with special achievements can not boast. Tayne wines: "We must at least achieve crowd literacy. To all have at least primary education. Otherwise … I don’t even want to think that there will be .." The concern of the teacher is understandable. Youth from what is leaving. It does not impose a prospect from dawn to sunset to process fields with garlic. If so go further, stay in the village of Kaykaya one old man Ken Mo.