Music on taste
Dominica, French colleague from Paris Match, agitated me for the Breton Pancakes of the manufacture of his mother and her culinary talents – and I was already ready to monitor the hotel. – You live in the hotel Plaza Athenee?! You dine there in the ducasse restaurant?! – He got his hands on the seams, and he already looked at me like an aliens. – So it is impossible. MON DIEU that pancakes! – Shrinking ON. – Ducassey! It’s at least once in life.
At the moment and gently canceled pancakes. I did not understand anything, well, well. Raughty in the spring, in respectable Avenue Monten, which is clearly mired in the madness. Here is an explicit anachronism – the Eiffel Tower, it will not change the outfit of the New Year tree and still signals the offensive of the new millennium. Understandingly expensive bouquets with pioneer columns rush Japanese in jeans with elongated knees, buying pants Prada pants and Louis Vuitton bags. Pigeons verses human voices, as if they are not pigeons, but capricious misconfigured babies.
– Better after dinner come to our digestive. So you say, as I was right, the Dominica says goodbye to the hotel’s wavy visors in the Art Nouveau style.
Decience – a faithful word for Plaza Athenee. Even the Parisian pigeons in the courtyard stop scandaling and singing only hardly. Gilded chairs, mirrors in antique frames, carpets and other luxury in the spirit of Louis XIV – all this is not confused and does not prescribe. Neophyt tetanus does not happen when meeting at the entrance "Vertushka" With Karl Lagerfeld with some kind of wild fan of uppervises (in the gallery of tapestries, which is directly in front of the restaurant Ducasse, secular and fashionable characters are going to File-Clocks daily). Marlene Dietrich is not in vain walked every morning to drink coffee in Plaza Athenee (so far it could walk, naturally). Maybe so she settled in the apartment directly opposite? At least a concierge that still works in the stairwell, where Madame Dietrich lived, assures: that is why.
However, Marlene did not live to Alena Dukassa – Maestro opened the restaurant only last year. And almost immediately got three stars Michelin – and this is the highest of the existing restaurant regalia. I begin to understand Dominic and tremble.
– And what about Ducassu it is necessary in the evening? – I ask the Italian.
– Not fundamentally, but if you want, it is very appropriate. When you still be visiting the living god Haute Cuisine!
So case! Warning it is necessary. Mon Dieu! It’s good that I took a little black dress and heel shoes. Ducassa Cute Ecumenical, as if sewn from Renaissance sonnets and singing of paradise birds. Symphony of flexible ladies spin, bell and slender, as if tightened into imaginary corsets. Knives and forks, like a bow, swaying into the tact of candles on a giant three-meter classic chandelier, dressed in a barely shimmering beige case from organza in the style of Hi-tech. For other tables almost do not speak. Music here does not happen in principle – nothing should distract from enjoying food. In this silence, you catch dozens of nuances of taste in the usual and without clauses, it would seem, meat or lobster. Why unnecessary sounds? Each dish from Ducass to taste as a small sonata. And sonata completely understandable organism. Blue Omar on black truffles and basil leaves. Fresh Langust with sturgeon caviar. Pigeons with canapes from artichokes. Pyrenean veal with seafood. For thinning and simply concerned about healthy people, these names sound terrifyingly, but even after Roma Baba, A la Monte Carlo does not happen any sensation in the stomach. I have a feeling that the soul was singing an angelic soprano.
Is it really in high-kitchen restaurants about the rivers? Stupid, people came tasty and expensive to eat, and not at all in the fitness club. However, Gargantua times have passed for French cuisine. Previously, its dishes and the truth were insidious: the portion of Foi Gra with a small dense loaf with nuts and olives – and all, an extra centimeter on the waist. Now any gourmet is aware that only one principle remained from the medieval founder of French cuisine in French cuisine – not to change the taste of products, but to emphasize it. The velvet revolution in cooking destroyed the velvet revolution in the cooking, the manifesto was such: to simplify the process of cooking and abandon the many hours of cooking meat sauces, add vegetable food, reduce portions. By the way, Alain Ducass took the most direct participation in the movement of Nouvelle Cuisine – he is already twenty years at the slab and in the movement of the gastronomic avant-garde. And fate helps Alain in his delicious business – somehow he flew in the plane from Courchevel, and the plane in the fog crashed about the rock. All died – he was alive.
– Lucchy he, – I’m talking already in an hour after the gastronomic insight of Dominic and his mother, sipping the promised digestif.
– Lucky you, "Dominic says, – People for three months book a table in Ducasse. Even regular customers of the hotel first order a table in the restaurant, and then a hotel room. And not on the contrary.
"Cooking is fast art, daily performance. In this play for a brilliant director rehearsal – Virtue. And for the second director – a dull routine. We will be ingenious directors. And when the details are honed to perfection, the moment comes when the very essence of the performance that is now composed"