Montenegro. ours go and hear: "Good reached!"
In the last years of the country of the Schengen zone, sorry for the rude word, at all "Razorzheli": The visa will refuse, will give it late. Insurance they present the hotel reservation. And in the consular department – queues, queues. All in all, "do not let dunk in Europe", How complained once the heroine of the popular Soviet play. And at the same time I "Vanka lay". What remains? Tested our tool – asymmetrical answer.
In recent years, Thailand, Malaysia, Sri Lanka, Cuba and a number of other countries, very far abroad have become visa-free for us. To dangle thousands of kilometers to many not by pocket: we are not "Rokfors" what kind! And if it was also possible to carve out a week-another or until the expiration of the passport remains a half months? Then your chance is Montenegro.
Feel free to take a ticket for the nearest flight, and you will be taken here as relatives – no one will even wake up for a visa (verified). When you enter in Montenegro, no cash shares are produced, only when delete "Airport collection" – 15 Euro. By the way, convenience for travelers: Euro – this is today’s Montenegrin currency.
An airport "Vnukovo" In recent years has become "Resort": Hence the charters on Antalya, Hurghada and other Sharm el-Sheikh. Registration on my Tivat begins – the town lying in the south of Montenegro, near the Adriatic Sea. I stretch the ticket and hear: "It’s not your flight! Go to the next rack!" I put another line and again: "Your flight is the next!" Wow, immediately three flights to little Tivat.
When you are flown to him, you expect to see the Black Mountains – and indeed, here they are, as on the palm. Black they seem because covered with dense forests. Once in the Adriatic dominated Venice, "Lady of the seas", And the country was called Montenegro to the Italian manner (translated – the same Montenegro).
Passengers stretched to passport control racks mainly – "Planned" Tourists. Among others – "Ladies with a dog". Beloved PSA are transported in a large plastic cage, and they themselves – in sneakers on the boss; feel at home. The luggage tape has several teenagers in a pack. After removing the bikes with the conveyor, immediately collected "Steel horses" And on the road – on mountain passes. Someone leafs the phrasebook: "lep" – Suit, "praise" – thanks, "Molim" – please, "Cruel Peach" – Alcoholic beverages. Official language – Serbian, but many Montenegrins speak or, in any case, they understand our, and in restaurants there are necessarily a menu in our.
From the airport to Tivat – 10 minutes drive, and here is the first acquaintance with the town standing on the shore of the bay. Bolko-Kotorsky Bay, where there is the largest fjord of the Mediterranean and the most southern fjord of the northern hemisphere, crashes into a landing at 28 kilometers. It was this bay that has long been a rainy of sailors who preferred to experience storms and storms here. Many creative natures came here for inspiration. At different times, Bayron, Bernard Shaw and many others visited here.
During the breakdown of Yugoslavia, the territory of Montenegro War was not affected, but for a long time was in the international blockade. Industrial enterprises did not work, beaches and hotels Dichali. The result was unexpected: the ecological situation in Montenegro became one of the best in Europe. Tourism just recently began to revive, but rapidly: hotels buy and reconstruct Austrians, Slovenians, ours (where without them!).
In Tivat, several hotels, but prices bite – from 30 euros and above. But on the hotels, the Light Wedge did not come down: we are looking for a refinement in the private sector, it is well developed here. I am going on a quiet street and see an inconspicuous sign: "Sobe. Apartament. Zimmer". This means that the owners give the room. "Question price" – 10 euros per day. Feel forward, passport may not ask; Room key in pocket. Now we need to decide on the area.
Tivat is called "Gate of Bogo-Kotor Bay". "God created the world for 6 days, and at the 7th day did not rush to create this fjord at the foot of the delict", – says the local apocrypha. Today, a cozy town has been abused at this place. It is surrounded by a unique park, in which exotic plants grow, for centuries, delivered seafarers from distant wanderings here.
In the evening all "establishment" spends leisure in restaurants on the embankment. Corporate Drink – "Vrataz", high quality grade of dry wine, the name of which is translated as "Horse Voronev". And if under the vine (local chacha) will treat you "Pepper cookie", Do not hurry to flush your nose – you will find a huge juicy chop.
Tivat is located on the shore of the Bay of the same name under the Kalats Hill (400 meters above sea level). Here is the old temple of St. Anthony (1373 g.). During the centuries, the town was "Quiet crude", And from the second half of the XIX century its intensive development began. In the era of Austro-Hungarian rule in Tivat, a marine arsenal was built – a plant for repairing ships Navy.
Nearby are small islands: the island of flowers and the island of St. Mark. The first is a small oval peninsula for about 300 meters. With land, it was bound by a natural narrow and low strip, which at roping flooded. So the island of flowers at the same time was both the peninsula. It remains the ruins of the Benedictine Monastery of St. Mikhail, and now archaeological excavations are underway here.
Near – Island of St. Brand (Stradoti). The name comes from the times of Venetian, when it was a camp of Venetian soldiers of Greek origin (Stradiotes – soldiers). Today on the island there is a tourist village of Sv. Mark, founded in 1962. Near another small island – Gosp one cute. It has a monastery of the Blessed Virgin, founded in the XVII century and restored in the second half of the XX century.
Bernard Shaw When visiting Boko-Kotor Bay, wrote a short, but exhaustive letter: "I welcome you from the most beautiful corner of the whole world".
From Tivat you can go to "Small army" – Walk the coast of the fjord counterclockwise. The first town on our way – the ancient Kotor lying in half an hour from Tivat. The Adriatic coast of Montenegro, stretching from Croatian to the Albanian border, incredibly picturesque. Home Pearl – Kotor Bay. Kotor, the town of ancient, small and very cozy, included UNESCO in the List of World Heritage Monuments.
Who has long been the coastal shopping center where the exchange of goods was "Susta-Sea". It was expanded and strengthened during the reign of Diocletian’s emperors (284-305) and Justinian (527-565, from the Illarian, from the peasant family). However, the one has come even earlier – 20 centuries ago. Since the time of the ancient Illyrians and Romans, this village was known as Akruvium, and then Qatarum. From the end of V along the century, he was under the rule of Byzantium, and in 1185 he was included in Serbia.
In 1371, the Kotor was captured by Austro-Hungarian, and then Venetians. Subsequently a town "Osawai" Austrian, our, French and Italian troops. In the XVII century, it consisted of 13 temples and 7 monasteries; 10 temples left now. The cathedral was built in the XII century on the basis of an ancient temple of the 9th century. The cathedral is consecrated in honor of the patron of the city -. Tripon (Trepun). It is worth noting that the temple is 313 years older than the Assumption Cathedral in Moscow.
Local legend says that in the 9th century some navigators were taken from distant Frigia’s body. Trifon. Hiding from the storm, went to the bay, and so could not get out of it – the storm did not subscribe several weeks. "If the saint does not want to leave our city, – solved local residents, – let him forever remain here and will be wound forever". So St. Trieph has become a patron and the intercession of the brotherhood of sailors Boki Kotan, existing and so. In the old town, an open fortress wall, the Palace of the XVIII century, once belonged to the Lombard family. In 1804-1806, a our consulate was located in this building, as reported by the inscription on the memorial play.
our influence is felt in the town and today: in the former Poem Palace (XVII in.) Located a restaurant "Moscow lights". However, she met his hand and "uncle Sam": Reconstruction of the lower part of the fortress hanging over the city was performed in 2004 for the money of the American "Foundation for cultural conservation". After that, some anachronism looks at the words of Josip Broz Tito, carved over the city gate: "Someone else is not necessary, you will not give up. 21. eleven. 1944".
On the top of the hill, crowned with a fortress, it is better to rise in the morning hours, up to the midday heat. And carefully look under the feet – snakes are found here. And below, near the fortress wall, one more "Danger sign": Advertising stretching with shocking inscription: "Swiss chilled tea with marijuana". And image of the corresponding green seven school.
It is clear that Montenegro is not Holland, and here drugs are prohibited. And advertising – just "Welcome". The cafe is located on the terrace, it is not visible from below, and it is necessary to intrigue the potential client so that he climbed on the stone stairs to the top. And there – the usual menu, the usual service. And wonderful top view on the roofs covered with red tiles.
From the kotor will continue the way to the town of Perast. Mountains are embedded in Emerald Blue Bay, forming cozy bays-beaches. On the shores – the city-fortresses whose history has millennia. Ancient Perast inherited his name from the Illyrian tribe of the porussius who lived in these edges in the ancient era. In the ancient chronicles, it is mentioned in the possession of the monastic Order of the Benedictians, whose monastery was located on the nearby island of St. George (San Georgio). The city has developed as a maritime merchant center, but in 1571 Turks attacked him. However, he soon passed under the authority of the Venetians and became the outpost in the struggle against the same restless Turks.
Residents of Perasta have long been famous as experienced naval. In 1367, shipyard was founded here, and in the XVIII century, the city became a large maritime and shopping center. In front of the local cathedral, the Bust of the famous Flotovodz Marco Martinovich (1663-1716). In the local seaside school, he taught Seuckworm and our cadets. Brave sailors from their travels brought valuable items and built stone houses in Perasta. Therefore, Perast is a real city-museum that resembles the Epoch of Sailboats.
The tiny seaside cities of Risan, Perast, Budva, founded by the Illyrian pirates and the Romans, have a unique medieval color – the abundance of narrow streets overlooking the spacious squares, Catholic temples, adjacent to Orthodox churches, palaces and fortress walls of different eras.
Before Perast, are the islands of the state of the state of the SN Shkrapel and St. Georgia. Each of them has its own story. The first is an artificial island formed by a stone embankment and the remnants of the courts around the underwater cliffs. It contains the same temple built in the style of Baroque in 1630-1722. In the scenic of the temple, the altar picture of the middle of the XIV century is kept: her 20 years old embroidered Hiacinte Cacut from Perasta, waiting for the return of his narrowed from the marine campaign.
On the island of St. George, as usual, rows the same temple. Swiss artist Arnold Becklin wrote there one of the most famous works – the picture "Dead island". She was kept in the Benedictine Monastery, founded in the XVII century. Boko-Kotor "Around Move" Ends in the resort town of Herceg Novi, the largest at the entrance to the bay. He was founded by the Bosnian King of Telfko I (1383-1391) to ensure the release of the sea. And then, as it often happened in the local fertile places, the city passed from hand to hand. In 1481, he was captured by Turks, in 1538 – Spanish-Venetian-Papal Fleet. Subsequently, the city passed under the authority of Venice, Austria, Russia and France.
Herceg Novi, numbering about 15 thousand inhabitants, is one of the most famous and visited tourist centers of the Adriatic. This is a city of typical Mediterranean architecture – with narrow, steep and winding streets and low houses built of stone. Urban walls of former fortifications in the past defended the population from different dangers. About the turbulent historical past resemble numerous architectural monuments. On the foundation of the Spanish fortress "Shanpal" Turks arrested "Horny Grad" and "Canley Kulia". From the time of the reign of Venetian people left here "Fort Mareo" and "Citadel".
The city has a rich museum, archive, scientific library, art gallery, Orthodox Church of the Holy Archangelov. Noticeable in it and "our mark", quite modern. On one of the streets of the eyes rests in the real estate agency "Volga", On the other – in "our house". Typical promotional text: "Full legal support for buying and selling objects. We assist in creating your own business". Our teach!
Western outskirts of Herceg Novi closed with a resort town of Igalo. Here they treat rheumatism and disorders of the musculoskeletal system. At the entrance you can see the villa "Galeb" – one of the residences of Marshal Tito, who loved sea resorts. In a local park, an unusual exhibit: railway car. This is a monument of the past era: from 1901 to 1968 Trains went along Boki.
In the morning on the radio advertising in our – everything about the same real estate, with "Legal support". A steak of schoolchildren moves towards a two-story tourist bus that threw them. Speak by "Novorussky": "Not, really cool sneakers!". On board the bus advertising: "Rise in price (travel)!" and "Port of registry" – Vinnitsa. So I didn’t think the Führer, sitting in the bunker near Vinnitsa, that everything will happen. Could not know about this neither Stalin, nor Tito.
And now we will go from Tivat outside the fjord of Boca Kothevich – southeast, to the coast of the Adriatic. This time, our goal is the most popular resort of Montenegro – Budva, wearing a proud name "Chernogorsk Riviera". Today at the local Luda "Own exit": Previously, Chernogorets did not think of life without a horse, and now – without cars. Passenger communication between the towns is not so intense, and each coming bus is taken by a slight assault. Chernogorets comes to the bus and freezes on the steps. The conductor asks: "Go to the salon!" That in response: "I bought a ticket to walk on foot?"
Half an hour drive and here "Bus Stanitsa" Budva. It occupies the central part of the Montenegrin coast and is one of the most popular resorts and one of the most sunny cities on the Adriatic. Ancient city with a labyrinth of the streets, numerous cafes and shops gathering by impressive fortress walls.
Budva is a rich past: the village of Boui was founded in an antique era. It is rightly called Greco-Illyrian, since the Greeks and Illyrians lived here, as evidenced by archaeological finds from Budva Necropolis. In the 2nd century BC.NS. Budva was captured "Latinians", And after the collapse of the Roman Empire, she moved under the power of Byzantium. Her dominion lasted several centuries, and in 1184-86. Budva entered the Serbian state. From the 20th century begins "Parade sovereignty": in Budva "Noted" Venetians, Turks, French, Austrians, Italians. In the old part of the city, church buildings are preserved: the temple of St. John (VII in.), Church of Santa Maria (IX in.) And most "young" Temple of St. Trinity (1804 g.).
On a small area lies a fragment of an ancient Roman column with a Latin inscription. And nearby – the office is all the same persistent "Real Estate" With advertising in our: "We will help you to carry out your dreams: buy a house by the sea, cottage in the mountains, an apartment overlooking the nucleus (Adriatic Sea), buy a yacht, boat. Want to open a firm in Montenegro, to develop a business plan, an investment project, find a reliable and competent lawyer? We will help you and in this".
The embankment is a string of snow-white boats and sailboats with a notice in our: "Rent Yacht". Full impression: Russia is the country of magnitude yachtsmen, which, of course, some exaggeration. And the most wonderful view of the old city opens from a cafe area "Masha". With this "Squeezing" Competers cafe "Pushkin", decorated with a well-known poet profile.
Why ours break into Montenegro? Some seize in it an improved version of the Crimea, where they are not deceived in the Kondobach restaurants (snacks), do not hiss in the back: "Moskal!" – and do not put songs about "Vladimir Central". Others are cheap continuation of Croatia, only with sandy beaches instead of stone. In fact, this is a blessed place with the majestic nature, the purest sea, a soft Mediterranean climate and a rich history, which, I suspect, I have a slightly reacted.
However, the Montenegro is mastered not only ours. I pass by a group of tourists coming out of the bus, and hear the passage of the phrase: "Vaasche here is gold cheaper!" I look at the bus – arrived from Lutsk (Ukraine). However, for the Montenegrins, we are all – Slavs brothers.
In the early 1990s, the ours went to the alien to work, now they go to spend. And the Chinese are slowly occupied by the Chinese. At one of the squares of the Old Town, the building of the historical archive, next to him – "Kityaki restaurant "Hong Kong". In another restaurant, young Chinese women rehearse the evening show. I go to the Orthodox Church of St. Trinity. Warrant frescoes of two-time limitations, ancient iconostasis with a crucifix at the top. And at the foot of the crucifix. Two twisted dragon! Really here "Hand Beijing?" Although it is unlikely – the old area is divided into "Spheres of influence". At the Catholic Temple of Sv. Virgin Mary alms asks the Hermitic Gypsy, Orthodox – Chromonoga Albank. These annoying "Prof" Do not pass the group of German tourists.
In the suburbs of Budva, there is a subighteous monastery, the favorite place of Chernogorsk bishops. From the old city in just a few minutes you can get a boat to the island of St. Nicholas. Budva run a mini-road train with open trays. They are departed from the walls of the Old Town and move along the embankment, stopping at the tourist facilities – restaurants, cafes, discos, beaches.
Along the coast between Budva and St. Stephen pursue a boat with a semi-closed bottom deck and an open top. One ticket for a fixed route costs 5 euros, and it is valid throughout the day. You can go ashore at any stop (bought, sunbathe, eat), and then sit on another boat and return; Approximately a break between the boats – half an hour, about the arrival of the next boat notifies the loud megaphone.
Not far from Budva, there is one of the most elite resting places on the Adriatic – the island of St. Stephen, connected to the shore of a crucible path. As noted in the guidebook, "City Hotel St. Stephen is a restoration and equipment to the maximum comfort of objects of the old fishing village". It is felt that the translator is not a carrier of the our language, but only a user.
In the XV century, locals built a fortress on the sea rock, which defended the population from the attack of pirates. In the nineteenth century, the island was tested a narrow dam. In 1954, the remains of the fortress turned into a hotel in a hotel, and externally old buildings left unchanged, and inside – magnificent hotel apartments. Still pearl from the guide: "As a urban target with its apartments, restaurants together with corporate dishes, exhibitions and manifestations is the only one on mediterrane". It is almost all, but "Mediteran" Translated by S "French Serbian" means "Mediterranean".
Island St. Stephen looks like an old town with bastions, streets, squares, two churches dedicated to, naturally, St. Stephan. There was another church – in the name of Alexander Nevsky, but when restructuring in her place, a restaurant was erected – the spiritual food was replaced by a delay. About the church remind only icons in one of the halls. Once in Montenegro (perhaps and in St. Stephen) visited Lord Byron. In those days, we expressed his impressions with flowers, and the poet also could not resist, issued such a text: "At the time of the birth of our planet, the most beautiful from the meetings of the Earth and the sea occurred in Montenegro. When the pearls of nature were sown, this land had a whole handful".
At one time on the island, Sophie Lauren, Sylvester Stallone, Bobby Fisher, Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Barton, Claudia Slate, Indira Gandhi, Gamal Abdel Nasser and even Leonid Brezhnev. The impressions of the latter before the descendants did not reach, but it can be assumed that Leonid Ilyich expressed "Deep satisfaction" From stay by "Low Earth". Or maybe something else and more original – we can. By the way, in 1955, during Tito’s visit to the Soviet Union on the platform of the railway station in one of the Siberian cities, by rumors, such a transparency was posted: "Cardigo welcome the expensive companion Tito and his clique!"
Tourists from the nearest towns and hotels come to St. Stephen on the excursion. If VIPs settled on the island, then you can only go through the dam "Small land" and drink water from the source. And then "put on" To the iron grille, reliably overlapping the entrance to the island. If "Book" removed, then accommodation in St. Stefan will cost 1000 euros in 10 days. "St. Stephen" amazingly beautiful, but years take their. Most of its numbers are no longer so elite as with Tito, and resemble the aged Oborobomovskaya Dacha. However, some ours this nostalgia.
Very close to s "Saint Stefan" On the coast, there is another unique place – the park that once owned by the Serbian royal family, with the beach, called the name "Queen Beach". According to one information, this venance lady bathed in the bay, on others – sitting in the chair, admired the sea. The hotel, located in the park, naturally, is also called "Royal Beach".
It is hardly somewhere else in the world to ours relate to such warmth as in Montenegro. There were no Soviet tanks in the 56th, none in the 68th. our with Chernogorz – Brothers Foreng! First of all, because Montenegrins are the most real Orthodox Slavs, the truth, living in the mountains. I will add a centuries-old connection between our peoples, the proximity of the language crops.
Rodinitis us and general mentality. Enough to compare the our proverb "Work is not a wolf, the forest will not run away" And the first is "10 Commandments Chernogorz": "A man is born tired and lives in order to rest". And if in the West since the time of the Cold War there is a horror service: "ours are coming!", In Montenegro, you will say to you: "Caressfully welcome! Good reached!"