Mongolian cuisine: try to find ancient
Kitchen of any country is yours, a special world: bright and sharp, either dim and no, exquisite and sophisticated, or borrowed and faceless. But still the world.
Kitchen Mongolia from the point of view of a civilized man bloodthirsty, cruel and oily. But the so-called cultural person has been known for the century for meals for meat: there is he is ready and with great pleasure, but see how the throat sip is cut, or even more so to take the knife of God! It is inhuman. So, immediately let’s say there is nothing to do there with a tourist, if it rushes his eyes at the sight of a bloody ram carcass or shed tears over the murdered lamb, from which hospitable Mongols are going to cook chorch for him.
What unearthly beauties there you can taste about it already unsubscribed earlier, in the room i of October 1 for this year. And now what food is waiting for a tourist in this country.
No, Ulan-Batar himself dim and surpassed township, something like our Novokuznetsk, no culinary surprises will not be presented with a white person. In any cafe or restaurant you will get quite European food: a salad of pinkish, ripening on the plate of tomatoes and half-meter greenhouse cucumbers, a soup from unknown ingredients with the addition of Maggie, from which, judging by the TV, the face must be covered with the mask of delight, and something meat (in Slices or Shmaak) with a mandatory ramble rice rice and gravy. Well, and coffee-ice cream, then yes, including vodka with Heineken and Bavaria.
Not that outside the capital. Although in regional centers, on, as a rule, the only main street stretched along the highway, you will see countless Hoolen Gazar (dining room) and Tsayna Gazar (cafe), tackle there to fill your stomach. Purser. True, the Mongols themselves are happy to fly away any boses (Buuz, near Buryat poses, something like large dumplings), served by a smiling hostess. To gain courage to have a snack here, you need to have a tinted stomach. Or half-liter vodka per person. However, among our group of our tourists there was a character who all the time thoroughly to dive into the first passing eaters, where he, burning and sailing with meat juice, could calmly know the twenty of these very boses (two big plates). And then, already on the bus, I took from the package of Cheburek-another, seized by the day three back on a black hour, and, sweetly squinting him, eaten it. At least something. Only a blush spilled in chubby cheeks.
With the very bloodthirsty of Mongolian cuisine, you come across in the villages of nomadic cattle breeders (although the village is strongly said, because it consists of one or two yurt, well, the maximum of five). Let’s immediately without sublimation and prefaces. The ram is cut in this way: he is poured on his back and make a knife (I saw a simple pericoing) a small incision of centimeters ten on the stomach, right below the ribs; in it, to the very spine, a hand starts, which then, changing the direction, moves to the heart. The index finger finds the main artery and tears her. Here, actually, and all. Blood canning can be burned out of the suspicious abdomen and overflows in a saucepan. It is clear that it then drinks, but this is the aboriginal with us, sparing our nerves, did not do. Then the carcass freshly, and the meat is separated.
For some reason, the Mongols themselves consider this method of slaughtering sheep the most humane and painless. Well, they better know, although I am not the fact that the scream, even sobbed the ram did not hear. Everything was simple, scary and ordinary. How many hundred years ago and there will be hundreds of.
Mongolian family, let’s say, out of five people per week, an average of one and a half of the ram, depending on the season. Delicates is considered can be frowning as much as the boiled laughter of sheep Kurdyuk and fried lamb eggs. Store goat and ram meat usually in the stomach cleaned. An experienced owner can accommodate all the meat of one carcass in the scar, along with sealing and processed heads, limbs and purified entrails. Meat, as a rule, boil, but do not count on a gentle, mutton muttering in the mouth: Mongols prepare it almost without salt and is not long, because it is believed that more useful substances remain in abnormal meat. Their traditional, according to the cattleheads themselves, the dish of chorch: the separated meat with the bones of the layers is thrown into the milk 40-liter aluminum canister, layers are painted by stones hot in the fire, add some water and some spices of our production. Close the hermetic lid and briefly put on fire. Dishes, spices all this says, of course, about tradition, but with a certain Soviet flavor.
There is, however, another way of cooking meat, in our opinion already more similar to traditional, but also more severe for eyes and nerves. Goat or Tarbagana devoured by a hammer on the forehead, cut off the skin behind and wage. The then empty belly and chest carcasses are tightly stuffed with hot stones, the size of a small fist is all a pair and smoke, and the goat tie back with a wire, like a bag with potatoes. Well, it would seem, it would be clear: now the carcass will be poured over the fire and it is lit on it. But here in the hands of a sorceressant over a man’s goat with the appearance of a rural teacher in a suit, a tie on a gum and a narrow hat (I personally saw this one) a brilliant Soviet invention appears the soldering lamp. Eyuto among the bad smells of Paveny wool and gasoline in an hour and ends the preparation of the famous Mongolian dishes BOOR.
Then the carcass is cut from the back, and the pieces of meat without a side dish are served by guests on plates (however, the last in everyday life of the Mongols themselves). Food is so tough and fresh, but a lot.
The foil meat is perhaps the most common food of local residents. The meat is a large horned or dugoron cattle, cutting on a strip of 20-30 centimeters long, in winter and in summer (in the shade) hangs like underwear on the ropes, and gets off-dried. These meat ribbons are brown-colored nomads gnaw, eating twisted or boiled.
In the summer, Mongols use mostly dairy products: Koumys, ripples Tarag, sweet-sour dried cottage cheese Aaruul, thanks to all local dazzling white teeth made from raw milk. Syll with a taste and smell of a lamb salae, raw fat foams obtained by long Boiling milk, vodka arch of mare milk. Last, unfortunately of this extremely friendly people, too favorite and poorly absorbed by them.
Finally, the crown of Mongolian cuisine Mongolian tea. The classic rules for its preparation are. Water is boiled in a cast-iron boiler, throwing a tiled green tea in it and fascinate milk. Reggording to boil, then add salt, butter, a bit of roasted flour, slightly roasted barantular salary currency and bone marrow. Drink, respectable gentlemen, it is necessary without sugar. By the way, do not forget to ask the owners to file to him (however, they themselves will be fed) solid pieces of dough, fired in the ram fat.
And do not, you do not need to turn the nose once you are in Mongolia. In the local, non-changing cuisine for the kitchen, much more culture (which is) and traditions than in any European, with her Foi Gra and Blanmins. Yes, and try to find a country today, where you, unfamiliar and random, will not release from the yurt, without feeding and without drinking. At least such tea.