How we 3 months traveled in India on the Motorcycle Royal Enfild

My name is Katya. In January 2019, my husband and I went on a journey in India on a motorcycle. Bought it and three months chased around the country. We are from St. Petersburg, both of us for 30 years. Charter from the harsh St. Petersburg winter, flew into the sunny Delhi, where in January +30, and at night +22. I tell how it was and how much we spent on the trip.

We spent 3 months in India, as both freelancers and work remotely. My husband is a programmer, and I translator, sometimes working as a copywriter.

This is not our first journey, so we could already organize it yourself. In winter, the dry season in India, the probability of rain is minimal. You can safely go on the way all the time and do not stop to wait for it.

Route in the country

We chose the road Delhi &# 8212; Agra &# 8212; Delhi &# 8212; Goa.

In Agra, they wanted to see Taj Mahal, And then they gathered a couple of weeks to relax on the beaches and on the way to call:

  • Jaipur – Pink city,
  • Udaipur – White City,
  • Mumbai – Crazy city.

We did stop and other, small towns, but writing about them especially nothing: city, hotel, shower, bed, morning, motorcycle.

The quality of the roads in India turned out to be better than we thought. While you go along the highway, everything is in order. But the further leave from civilization and the central roads, the more problems.

On the highway there are often buses with passengers on the roof, so they are saved from the heat. They are found in India, mainly, focusing on the sounds, and not on the rearview mirrors, many of them even turn them out, so as not to interfere. Even if there are mirrors, let it be misleading, the locals look at themselves, and not on the roadway. Therefore, the sounds on the road a lot. In big cities, so noisy that it is impossible to talk on the street.

Why such a complex route

Roads in India / Photo by

My husband and I arrived in India for the first time in 2016, in Goa. Immediately fell in love with this country and dreamed of riding on other states, look at people who live there, see their daily life.

People there are very friendly, love to communicate. Usually from English remember only: &# 171; Hello! Which Country?&# 187;. But by what pleasure they deliver it to say, unwittingly enjoy communicating with a pleasant, fun man.

Taj Mahal – It was a dream for both of us. I really wanted to visit there, although it was uncomfortable – I had to go in the opposite direction, 400 extra km. When we planned the trip, it seemed that such a distance did not mean anything, if we talk about the beauty of this architectural monument.

About buying a motorcycle

The motorcycle we bought, and not to lease, because no one will pass it on such a distance. Even if there was a wishing, then we still have not been going back. From Goa we flew home.

Bought a motorcycle on the Carol Bach market (Karol Bagh) in Delhi for 80,000 rubles.

There are all selling, not only motorcycles, scooters and spare parts. Went by the market, looked. The guy approached, asked what we were looking for. We answered that we are looking for Enfield. He took us to the seller who we have it in the end, and bought.

At the end of the journey, we sold our motorcycle for 55,000 rubles.

Documents are not issued on a foreigner, but give out. There is recorded the previous owner, and the new is not specified. Legally this is not a violation, no one ever asked any questions. There were no problems when communicating with police, nor when selling.

We had the following documents for the motorcycle:

  • TEPPAST (Form 23, indicated the number of the frame and engine that must be verified before purchase, they must match),
  • Forms of alienation rights (Form 29, Form 30),
  • insurance (demand only in big cities, we were asked only on the day of sale).

The technical condition checked the husband, which almost does not understand the motorcycles, but his friend suggested, What to pay attention to:

  • on the geometry of the vehicle – didn’t it be cut and so,
  • did not digest whether the frame – If so, it is better to choose another bike,
  • what to change immediately after purchase – Filters, especially fuel, oil, clean or change chain.

Rights in India for motorcycle management are needed the same as we – Category A.

Before traveling better get international rights. They will be issued to the traffic police as a separate application to your main. Previously, it was worth 1500 rubles. Although usually quite just our rights, the main thing is that the necessary category is open to control the vehicle.

Insurance must be issued when buying.

On our motorcycle there were steps to put bags on them. Although the seller told us to choose any motorcycle – they would be such on any. Fasten luggage Special gum with hooks at both ends. We bought them a whole bunch, thought that you need more and that they would be lost on the road, but we had enough three to secure everything.

How we 3 months traveled in India on the Motorcycle Royal Enfild

Guys, who have bought a motorcycle, helped us consolidate our things, showed how to do it, then we coped ourselves. Oddly enough, it is a pretty reliable design. On the road from baggage, nothing has fallen.

On our website DOROGI-NE-DOROGI.RU has already been articles about India. If you are closer to bike rental, not a purchase, read About the journey in India on a rented scooter In this report

Weather in India

We did not accidentally choose the winter months. In India at this time, drought and pleasant + 25-30 ° C day. To drive on a motorcycle – the most suitable weather. Not very hot, all the time blows a pleasant wind.

On the road we left 9 days. At night we did not go, and the night (darkness) comes around at 18:30. But went early in the morning, together with the sun.

Where we spent the night

We lived in inexpensive hotels, once even in a hostel by name HowsteL (room in room 400 rubles.) In Jaipur. There was so neat and cheap, all new and beautiful, sheets crushed from cleanliness and freshness, which they usually do not achieve personnel in other places in India.

Hotels on the way went to 800-1000 rubles. per night.

Everywhere needed to be desperate to bargain. When the local sees tourists, they think that dollars roll from their pockets.

Where and how we fed

During the trip, we ate both in restaurants and cafes, and took street food. Did not recover.

Considering how many spices, including pepper, ginger and other things, they put in their dishes, then all the food is disinfect. I tried the most acute dish in Jaipur. My husband and I cried red with peppers with tears and for a long time I tried to breathe fresh air, get drunk with cold water.

by the way, From the fire in the mouth well helps milk.

At the end of food in a cafe along with a check, give a saucer with sugar and Anisian seeds. At first we did not understand why it is necessary, but then, after seeing how local famously send them to their mouth after a meal, they also did. Anis seeds extinguish a fire from spices and refresh to breathing.

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During the trip, we were very tired and did not see little. We went around the surroundings Delhi on the waterfalls and other interesting places after they had already reached Goa and rested a little there.

Motorcycle – not the most convenient type of transport. More than 300 km on the day not always happen. In the evening, the whole body does not stop walking and vibrate, as if everything else is going.

In India, I first saw huge flocks of butterflies. They flew in one gorge that we drove, clapped wings, sat down on the bushes. From afar it seemed that all plants in large colors, and in fact it was butterflies.

Beach / Photo by

We are so accustomed to the adventure that they did not even look for accommodation in advance. When V. arrived Arambol (endpoint), immediately went swimming on the beach, and then they have already taken the phone, began to look for accommodation. Found in 10 minutes.

The trip was calm. Nobody braked us and did not delay, they did not stand in traffic anywhere. Met a lot of good people who stayed on the cars when they saw us on the sidelines. They asked where we were going, admired our excerpt (especially mine). One of them said that he always dreamed of riding in India on a motorcycle, but he didn’t do this in his youth because of money, and now he cannot because of his family, wished us good luck, and we will fulfill his beautiful dream.

And in India, left-sided movement.

I am very quickly rebuilding on the one hand to another, and this is not the most important driver’s problem in India. The most important thing is that a huge number of people rides without rights and generally arrived from the village, where one motorcycle is two villages. This is not an exaggeration. There in fact constantly come across drivers who do not understand which side they need to go and why.

On the highway you can go only in a closed helmet. Everything flies into the eyes, mouth and nose – dust, small pebbles, midges, flies.

Normal helmet is worth from 12 000 USD (this is minimum, if only ride, and not drive and do not do dangerous tricks). For 300 rubles. there will be a thin helmet for a policeman if you fall in such, he will not help anything.

Public transport

From transport in India, we used a taxi, metro and knock Knock – Cheap motorcycle.

In Delhi went to the subway. The price depends on the number of stations (10-50 rubles.). I will not even point out prices for a taxi, as they depend on what kind of driver’s mood, he saw the light in your eyes. Need to bargain until he agrees to reduce the price twice and then leave dissatisfied. Then you will learn a real trips. Nothing can be done, such a custom.

mobile connection

The guy who sold us a motorcycle in Delhi, made us two SIM cards. Communication is called Airtel – Mobile Internet, limited, like everywhere. Almost no unlimited tariffs for mobile Internet. Catches good, but sometimes there was no connection on the road, helped downloaded in advance cards.

If we are going alone, that is, the ability to connect right at the airport. At the exit, there is a kiosk where they sell Sims and change money. I do not recommend the latter, because in the city the exchange rate is better.

Which of our readers can share their workers’ experience in an unfamiliar (or familiar) country? Tell us about your journey.

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