How inappropriate go to visit. In Tunisia
Habib was modest, smiled shyly and – what is the most amazing – no one has not called anywhere and did not impose anything. He just sat under a picture with a camel in a relaxed post office on a privala, immersed in thought about something one famous. I just hardly bathed down from a flock of tarators on the mixtures of the seller-only languages, we, two our women, pass by the silent, still Habiba, of course, but could not – struck the contrast in their behavior. But as soon as we stopped, he immediately startled, came to life, and what words sounded from his mouth! "Unique journey", "Berber Wedding", "Bread straight from the oven", — He fired to us and demonstrated the corresponding color photos.
"How amazing! Thanks Habiba!" — We spoke to each other, climbing – I’m on a donkey, and my companion, Olga Pechkov, Moscow Travel Agency manager "Evista Tours", — on camel.
To neither to communicate with the donkeys, nor the more ride on them, I never had to, and my idea about the nature of these animals was based mainly on "stubborn like donkey", Yes, the saving version with a carrot that should be kept before the bow on the fishing rod, if he suddenly begins to become in the middle of the way, but for some reason I immediately decided that this donkey this unflattering information had nothing to do with. He, with dignity, turning his head and leaving me with a plum-eyed eye. rushed from a place like a running horse. Why I did not fall away from him at that moment, I still do not understand. Probably because he closed himself. And when she opened his eyes, it turned out that my new eared acquaintances headed the caravan. The leader means I got it, I decided. Only I am proud to realize how the leader was thoughtful and slowed down his step. "No, twins! — throwing all diplomacy, I told him. — Took to be first, so come on – click!" Remembering that I shouted the tunisman’s driveman when the caravan was touched on the way, shouted the same thing: "Ir-Rr! Ir-r-district!" Worked out.
And all. We became buddies for the rest of the rest, fun, dare to think, we were both. The drivers only showed gestures to wrap, and all the other problems with turns were solved on their own and lovely. Only once, I almost changed me – when the adorable Tomny Female Female Extra Rhaete with a velvety gray eye appeared behind one of Olive. I had to explain to a comrade, what are the priorities in such a difficult situation. "Understood", — he nodded to me and with a sigh drove on. Already not afraid of falling down, I looked around.
Embanked from the shore of the sea with his resort life, around was a completely different world: fields, plantations, gardens. Under powerful olives, there were high ladders, and from them on the rain-unacted tarpaulin flew out from under rapidly inhabitants of the hands of the hands of oval agate-black fruits – Maslins. Pomegranate trees were hurt by small, already dried the brown lampshairs of the fruits exploded from the inside. For a living fence from huge agave, beds were stretched with potatoes, well, completely the same as my hardworking neighbors in the country. Yeah, here and harvest with one such field. Well, well, let’s see: potatoes – she and in Africa potatoes or something special? No, absolutely the same, perhaps it will be more. "Interestingly, this size is from nitrates or just a variety of such? A, you hear me?" — I turned to a friend. Nothing answered the son of the Ollians.
It seemed a deaf clay fence – Yeah, so she, promised Berber village. True, I represented it somewhat differently: Gourby – huts or tents – in the real Tunisian village should be located in a circle at a distance of approximately meters of two hundred from each other. If in such a settlement of houses at least ten, it is already getting the right to refer to the village, or "Daroom" (This word means a circle).
My donkey stopped now seriously, with an expression of superiority on the face, throwing a glance at the approaching camels.
And for the fence we opened a picture called "Did not wait" in Tunisian-tourist version. From the stove – one to one Uzbek tandoor – lonely sticks out a few crumpled in lumps of old newspapers, the wind clapped stretched on wooden necklaces, symbolizing, obviously, the Berber Tent, the only one here, a camel with a doomed view walks there, having swam from a well Now unnecessary now water, pouring on a leather sleeve in a small swimming pool, yes Potter under a canopy of concentrate-frowning, not paying attention to the tourists who survived his tourists, revolves-climb from clay different vessels for sale. Eh, Habib, Habib! Be sure you are a deceiver, and suddenly our money will go to you – you thought about it?
On the one hand, I wanted to say something outstanding out loud, on the other – it was clear that this would not change anything. But Olya, as a professional business professional, decided to defend our rights and turned strict tone to "Cartridge Caravan", whether the main charter, or the owner of all this enterprise. Low, chunky, wide and long, to the ground, brown burly, with head, closed in a handkerchief, which is called our name "Arafatka", and large black glasses on a weathered face, he, on his first impression, seemed not to those man with which conflicts are solved peacefully. But Olya was no longer. Rassed – so his name – I spoke freely in four European languages - French, German, English and Italian, finding out our opportunities, switched to French and German, and starting the phrase in French, ended her in German, while speaking a conversation idiomatic street expressions in both languages, but in eastern interpretation. Taking advantage of adequate our idioms, what he said could translate it would be something like this:
— I know nothing. Habib noodles on the ears hung up, and I have to answer? Well, yes, in the summer there are folklore ensembles, bread bake, and now, in December, you can’t do this grandmother. Well, they have a gap here? I’m clear? So here’s expensive.
From these arguments, they had a native unobtrusive service, which only heated Olin martial spirit. But here I already, in order to avoid more serious coffee, I had to take the situation in my hands and dilute.
The return journey and I dedicated to the main way to bring our emotions to the zero temperature of philosophical calm. Rassed died in thought.
— Listen! — As soon as the caravan arrived at the end station, he suddenly appealed to us. — I finally do not want to be the honor of my uniform, sorry, burlyus because of this. And I want you to know that if I promised something, everything will be so – exactly. In short, I invite you to my home, in my village, I will introduce my wife and children, I will feed. Well, we go? I will take you in the carriage. — And he showed his hand on the indoor Phaeton, a hardened pair of slender horses and decorated with touching and naive paper robes and Christmas tinker, – the most elegant and expensive means of movement in the resort town of Sousse.
We thought. See how the Tunisian family lives, of course, I wanted – first, it’s just curious, and another such opportunity in this trip will no longer be, and secondly, the person is unfamiliar, especially a stranger, best Words, but by how his habits show, manners in his native, habitual environment – this is not fake, you will not play, it sits in a person at the level of unconditional reflex. But, on the other hand, we see this Rassed for the first time in life, and wherever he is lucky in fact – who knows. Scary. But the gloomy assumptions won the intuition and some knowledge of human psychology: Rashed made his invitation with the benchmark, what distinguishes people of truly good-natured and hospitable. To that, the computer of his own memory has risen the information: Tunisia, as is known all over the world, is a very calm country in the sense of criminogenic indicators. And we decided: we go!
"If you did something good. "
Forty minutes after forty-moving whiten bleached spot flashed the sign with the inscription "And where to" Arabic and French (I remember that on the map it is about halfway between sussa and monastery) – it seems profit. We arrived at the house of Rassed, when it was completely dark and a sore strength was disappeared with a piercing cold wind. But where is the town than the village, there are more and more solid at home, it is clear that it was not rebuilt so long ago. Close to the highway, and on Ryu Farhad, where Rassed lives, cursing, only silk rustle high in the dark sky of palm trees. Rassed pressed the call button at the wicket. Another thirteen girl and a child of ten-eleven. Smiling, they approached us and kissed, each – three. Kisses were childish fresh. Called children of Sony and names. We suspended on the threshold, and the children were already from somewhere from the gallery, having gone down the house around the perimeter, a metal vessel-tripogue, in which Trelie charcoal, – Vhm. My God, because something should certainly pronounce in response to such a reception, something is almost forgotten, not used. Yes, well, of course: "Peace to your house!" — This wish fits into the customs of all nations.
The house of Rashabed, by local standards, not big, but not small. From the center of him – Hall, or Skif, lead doors in Alcovya – Bedrooms for all family members, you can go through the corridor in the courtyard, and the house of the gallery is walking, the windows from the rooms are closed on it – now from wind penetration, and in summer, in the heat they save cool in the house. Walls and floor are lined with tiles with a national ornament – all in the name of the same coolness. In general, this is a typical house for Tunisia architecture and interior, with the addition of technical achievements of civilization in the form of air conditioning TVs, electric stove and plumbers.
And now we are already seated on a wide, but tough wooden bench closer to Vham in Sbey, covered with two households wide and long bedspreads – dark brown and white, natural colors camel wool. Rashed, after visited the bowl of the kitchen, returned and explained:
— All olives are cleaned. Alia, my wife is also. So I’ll cook something yourself now.
He acted deftly, quickly, you can even say artistic, and in a few minutes the table was formed a colorful still life of vegetables, tangerines, dates and bottles with red wine, on the label of which some kind of legendary local mountain was depicted. And here Alia returned, along with the older daughter Fatum, and a young relative, and we were again kissed. Soon, from the depths of the house pulled the smell of fried fish. Rashed brought a dish with bread.
— Hobis Tabuna, – he announced and added with the meaning: – Aliya Pekla herself.
Hobis Tabuna was all saturated with an unfamiliar wonderful aroma, inside white-white, with chopped black hooks. In his combination with light wine, it was even sophisticated. Here and the fish arrived, and after the very sharp and spicy Schorb soup, also with fish – Tuna, finely chopped.
Between the toast and treats gradually made his way a rudge of conversation. As we assumed, Rassed was really the owner of the caravan, or rather to say the transport and service company. Languages specially never taught – from tourists for hearing foreign words were gained – first the most necessary, only to be explained, but gradually got into and can only read in French, and even that, frankly, great labor. As for the business, it also reached everything on its own, about the specific specifics of his company, it has a clear concept:
— If you are engaged in the service, the best advertisement for your company is that people pass to each other from mouth to mouth. I want everyone to go to my caravan, leaving a good mood.
— Then Habib is hardly a good assistant.
— How would you explain it. We, Tunisians, in general, do not like conflicts, do not love to upset people, it’s somehow inappropriate sometimes and tell you a lie. So be a secret to you, I will open: in Tunisia, what you would be asking for a person, you will never be refused, although they do not always have anything that desire, but the ability to fulfill your request, therefore will fulfill its interest about. — Rassed tilted his head, looked slyly, glanced and added: – Yes, not all? Is the percentage? The main thing is that they will not refuse. And there it all depends on your ability to understand a person. So do not be angry with Habib. Especially since he did not like a little embellished what is in fact, this is our wonderful unexpected acquaintance would not take place.
What is right then right. Although I never heard Rassed Aphorism in Russia "East is a delicate matter", And it was just us and disengaged.
Aliya brought tea – oh, it was the most magical drink that we heard a lot about, but could not find in any cafe or bar: thick, black, with mint leaves and some other spices, very odorious and because, Probably, in a special roast: after the first throat, they involuntarily open the eyes from an unexpected cheerful tide. Good Still that cups with tea – small.
— What is a family for you? — We asked the question.
— Look at me and you will understand everything. I myself am no longer a boy, – Rashamed said with a laugh, stroking himself through a solid belly, – and children are still small, and it is typical. Men in Tunisia men only when already have a house or a good apartment, can provide a family, help parents.
And how they love their children, add from themselves, – it must be seen. In the Tunisian family, the father traditionally caresses children more than a mother, he is indulgent, he never reports them. Every man in his workplace – be it a table in the office or a truck cabin – stand or hang pictures of children, and this is not done at all, just people have such a need, that’s all. And Rashabed in the house next to the wise promenade "If you did something good, do it again", immortalized on ceramic tiles, hanging big portraits of Fatum, Sonia, names.
— And how to get married in Tunisia? — We asked.
— Eh, don’t you too much too much secrets today? Okay, I will open another one, "Rassed pronounces the conspiratorial tone and passes to almost a whisper: – First fall in love. Heard about such Tunisian custom?
We are friendly, the whole company, including the daughters of the Rashed, support this fun game:
— Then a date is prescribed!
— Explained to love!
— Stop! — Having lowered the voice to a thick bass, interrupts the female Homon Rassed.
— Do not steal – we are civilized people – and get acquainted with their parents, then introduce parents among themselves. Since the day, the man became the official fiance, the bride passes to his full dependency.
— That is, moves to him?
— In no case. Lives from parents. Yes, and during the wedding, waiting for the narrowed in his hometown. And the bridegroom celebrates its marriage with friends in a cafe or restaurant. Then goes to the bride, friends stay somewhere near her house, with guns at the ready.
— And the guns why?
— For Salyuta. When after some time the aunt and other elderly relatives notify all the counties that marriage took place, friends begin to fill in the air. But it happens in people not very rich. Those who have a lot of money, a great influence, are their customs: gorgeous outfits, banquets, all for European or American booms, but I do not know.
Here are those on, and we thought that Rassed – a rich man, turned out to be on Tunisian standards, not yet.
Sonya, younger daughter went down, hugged his father behind the neck from behind, and he stroked her hand.
— And by whom they will be, Rassed?
— And by whom they want, while studying at school. I would, of course, I wanted to go to medicine, – a respected profession, and there will be independent.
— And what, perhaps the will of the husband is no longer the main virtue of a Muslim woman?
— Funny you, Europeans! You always have a stereotype in the foreground. But in fact in our country everything is much more difficult, really do not see? One woman walks wrapped around his eyes, and the other drives around the wheel of his own car. The polygamy was banned in 1957, a year after Tunisia stopped being a French colony, and then went: and it turns out, it is possible, and this. Our women for some forty years have changed so that now in any European will not be given, anyway, young.
Proudly said it – know, they say, ours. Oh, probably the cheerful owner of the house again about honor of the burly remembered, and it’s funny because, probably, to silence the head of European women.
— But do men really protest against the destruction of the usual order of things?
— And who told you that he changed?
— How? But you yourself.
— It’s all external, external – and only. The woman is still conquering a man in everything, and he takes all the changes as the will of Allah.
Yes. The question clearly demanded a deeper study. Still a hundred years ago, the our traveler Peter Chihachev after his journey through Tunisia (it was on Tunisia, although it was in other countries of Maghreba) made such a conclusion: "I could bring thousands of examples of religious tolerance, or rather softness".
Shower in Sahele
However, it was time to know. Farewell, photo photos, exchange kisses, addresses. By the way, one is an important detail: there is no phone in the house of Rashed, that is, he could not warn his family about our appearance, and everything was really clean improvisation.
Phaeton takes a course on. I can not say what, because Rassed decides to deliver us to the hotel with the shortest way, not on the road, and right through the Sahel – the dry steppe, in our. Sky clouded clouds. Neither the moon or stars. Barely visible, agaves and sometimes they seem to silhouettes of roadside robbers with sorts of shutters in their heads. Wheels "carriages ride hard as if drowning ground in which small stones are drunk. The smallest of them sometimes shrapnel are knocked out from under the wheels. But now we are not afraid of anything, just laugh at our own fears. And Rassed’s horses are known, he drives them in Arabic, then suddenly asks:
— And how in our drive horses?
— Let’s go, warehousing! — Instantly picks up the natural polyglot Rassed.
Born Association suggested what to do next. Eh, Sahel, did not see the gift from the ours – so get! And we sank:
— Steppe yes steppe around.
Our voices slightly trembled, but Rassed rejoiced from the soul.
Then we also "Kalinka" and "You me me pidmanul" and "On Don walks" fulfilled with all the heat, which were capable of.
Tum-Tum-Tum! — Suddenly he ran into the beat. What is it? My God: Rain Drops Bun Bucked on the Roof of Phaeton. The rain in Tunisia is waiting for the greatest grace of Allah: the clouds will not go in December – there will be no next harvest. There are in Africa, we know, experts – rain spellcasters, can cause it, and can and take. Not our songs helped him shed? But how pouring something: a wall, what is called.
On the next day, we had to go to Carthage, but the way, as they say, is already a completely different story, and this has already ended in Moscow when I heard a message that the Christmas Eve 1996 will remember in Tunisia for a very long time: there , in the north, snow fell on the coast. And it happened for the first time in decades. Already the next day, some memories remained. Because in the air it was, as usual here in winter, 22 degrees of heat.
Now April, and I imagine how beautiful Tunisia is in bloom: And the coast of the Mediterranean Sea, and the Sahal. And in the south, amazing ephemers were blossomed – the flowers that live only a few days a year in the spring of the Sugar, where we, unfortunately, did not get. And all this bloom gave life to those, our shower.