Floating disco on a coniferous riviera

In Turkish Airport Dalaman, the aircraft enters landing by the Aegean Sea. Preparing for landing, IL-62 flies low above sparkling water, and the first thing that you notice is at the bottom – a lonely rock, protruding from the turquoise sea in a kilometer from the edge of the surf. Two young pines were attached to her naked side of her bare, who pierced their sprouts through granite.

Dechanging, the plane reaches the shore. Under us shows the quarter of small hotels and boarding houses with blue pool rectangles near. Then a soft landing on the desert aerodrome, where in addition to our side almost no one. Only at a gas storage, painted bright orange paint, refueling "Boeing" Airlines "Gulf Ayr". Hot air trembles, blurring contours of airfield buildings.

At the edge of the take-off field played by the sun glass windows of a three-story building of the airport and a navigation tower with a concrete visor at the top. Turbines El, Powered, shut down. Circling is established. The door to the exit opens, and hear how the sea waves rushing along the coastal dam. The people rises, stretches closer to the exit, exchanging jokes with a stewardess. Lazily climbed the ladder, behind him – the bus.

In the Dalaman of the flights take a little: four or five per day – in the summer, in season. In winter, happens. In the town of the same name, almost none of the our or Western tourists remain. Sightseeing here is not, and the suburban beach is rocky, with a strong approach. So all the routes diverge. Who rides in Marmaris, who is in Bodrum, and who, like us, in Fethiye.

Fishing village Fethiye over the past fifteen years has become a popular and inexpensive resort. I really like the French and residents of the Middle East. In the port of Fethiye on rented yachts, the Germans come and stand on the flight. ours, too, three years, how come here in the summer, but not enough, not at all like in Antalya. What can you do – habit.

The road to Fethiye goes along the steep hill, almost the mountains, overgrown with a thick pine forest and cedar. High straight trees suitable for the mast sailing knobot, Turkish peasants landed twenty years ago, under a contract with the government. Before all the hills were bald: some small shrubs grew, yes goat herb.

Coniferous forests scattered today around Marmaris and Fethiye. It is difficult to imagine that they are artificially planted. Most recently, rows of pine escapes were dissolved on distant slopes from the sea. There, at the height, pines barely reach a person to the belt.

Posning Sosnovy Bor and Having traveled by the Alley of Fatherland Palms, we get into our town. Upon arrival in Fethiye, his inspirational provinciality is immediately felt. In the afternoon in the alleys of the old city and on the main square with the equestrian statue of Ataturk – minimum of people.

Urban embankment, with a mile long, shot by umbrellas of open coffee houses, which serves twenty types of cakes and black coffee in copper buckets. On the side of the pavement, by the sea bringing salty coolness, smoky mangals are delivered. On them cooks with loud laugh and booms of smokyat kebabs and kebabs that expire with fat. Seagulls attracted by the smell of fried meat, circling over white cook caps. Waiters in green aprons are amused by bird pyruetics, crumbling cookies and throwing it high in the air.

Embankment empty. Visitors at little tables.

A little lively at the berths. Motor barcasses and sailing boats are moored here "Ketchi". A fun captain in a cap with a gold-plated Cocardian rolling on the boots of tourists around the neighboring islands or takes them to Cape Oludeniz, nice with its golden sand and blue clean water.

Boat with a platform on the feed belonging to the dive club, ready to take fans of scuba diving, having appropriate certificates, in a secluded deep bay in Cleopatra Bay. There, in transparent cold water, skates and octopuses live, and Greek amphoras come across the day.

Immediately, on the pier, fishermen traded with boats morning catch, overlooked algae and chamber. Sardines, Cambals and squid are sold quickly: in Fethiye many fish restaurants. In restaurants acceptable rates and polite service. The problem is in choosing.

On the close streets of the town of the snack bars are followed by one after another, and it is very difficult to deny eloquent owners who personally confuse you to visit that their institution. Guys, it is impossible to eat all.

From drinks cheap local beer "Hilt", Anatolian dry wine and Turkish rich. Beer resembles Danish "Karl-Sberg", wine is akin to the cutting Italian wines and nicely begetted in the midday. And here "Rakia" – This is something special. It is customary to dilute with water, but after breeding, it retains his insane fortress and thick milk. To taste, Rakia is something mean between the strongly diluted turpentine and vodka of Mariupol filling. Only people who exchered by anti-alcohol decrees of the eighty-fifth year are able to use such a liquid.

Cheapness is always attractive. But you need to be careful in the eaters, where the cost of full lunch per person less than ten dollars. Food there is probably benign, but instead of the ordered drum, baked in coals, you may well slip marinated tuna from tin can, and brandy "Martel" Submenimize "White stork" From Marmaris.

Low prices can not be afraid only in tiny cafe-buffets, in which straight before visitors are preparing shawarma on Arab recipes. Baked meat The lamb is cut with thin slices, sprinkle with pepper and greens, wrap in freshly baked fresh cake and served in three US dollars. Shawarma in Fethiye delicious and satisfy. One of her portion replaces a whole lunch.

Overnight in Fethiye also does not empty the wallet. There are many two-three-star hotels for 30-40 dollars per night. Large hotels have one – four-star club "Letonia". In the northern suburb of Fethiye, there are two more hotels with four stars on the facade, but one star can be safely removed from them. According to internal content, these hotels are pulled on solid three stars – no higher.

W "Letonia" contradictions between the official category and the fact that it offers to guests, – no. The club is located on a hilly peninsula, has a sandy beach, his creek with a berth for yachts, even a private lighthouse in the cauldron. Under the Lighthouse, there is a spacious dance floor with a magnificent view of Fethiye, on the mountain with portica of ancient tombs carved right in the stone, on a narrow island with villas of Istanbul rich and groves of orange trees.

In the evening, from here or from the terrace of the main restaurant, it can be seen how the embankment of Fethiye fun shines the light of street lamps, show-windows of a cafe, neon signs of hotels. At dusk Mountain, hung over the city, brightly illuminated to the top of the top of powerful spotlights. The villas on the opposite shore are painted in juicy yellow tones due to the included sodium lamps hidden among trimmed shrubs. Buys and red on-board lights of some vessels flash on the sea. For a minute, there is a feeling that there is not Turkey around, but a Côte d’Azur somewhere in the area of ​​Nice. Besides like tribute "High kitchen", v "Letonia" There is a small, but exquisite fish cafe, where they are preparing for French recipes. There are often wealthy gentlemen from Fethiye and important ranks from the local tourist department often.

But our brother, the usual resting, walk in "Delicate" Cafe is not necessary. Prices there are not in Turkish high and quite consistent with Paris. And half board in "Letonia", Not to mention a three-time nutrition, able to saturate anyone.

Buffet here in breakfast and dinner seems endless: such a variety of snacks, salads, hot dishes, pended sausages stuffed with fish and vegetable meat, cheese (including sheep), jarry, desserts, puddings and other things. One bad B "Letonia" – for mineral water should be paid separately.

With shopping B "Letonia" Sometimes problems arise. Clean the paper dollars or Turkish lies can not be here. Ordinary money in the territory of the clubs do not have. They must be exchanged in "Reception" On multicolored layers, mass beads, strung on plastic rod. The color of beads corresponds to a certain nominal value: dollar, two, ten. They believe to pay for everything that is not included in the price of the vouchers, that is, for drinking in the bar, for "espresso" On the veranda, for the use of a sail board or for water skiing.

All the newcomers arrived at first strongly confused in this specific monetary system, delivering the joy of waiters. But a day later, people are getting used and, already as if in passing, notes: "So, Andryukha, with us three yellow for beer" or – "Here, it is necessary to pay red and shiny for a cocktail "B-52"!"

And yet, it turns out, every strict system is imperfect. When my friend and I returned from Fethiye in "Letonia" on a motor boat belonging to the hotel, we needed to pay beads for travel. For some reason we did not have any blue beads, nor violet – no. Running in his pockets, my friend explained the steering-conductor the situation and pulled out a ten-dollar piece of paper. The steering was not embarrassed and with the words: "There are no problems in Turkey!" I enjoyed cash.

From "Letonia" to the city – ten minutes drive around the sea on the mentioned boat. Or fifteen minutes for a taxi (a row of ten-fifteen cars around the hotel awaits the hotel’s front door). But in Fethiye, guests are chosen rarely, as all imaginable entertainment is available on site.

V "Letonia" On duty Franco-Italian-Spanish team of mass workers, called "Animators" – in the sense of "Almighty". Massacks are ready to download nonsenarks of sidewayers with all sorts of useful classes: table tennis competitions, mini-golf competition, competition for the best jump in the pool "Soldier", or a contest who will drink more wine and so on. Miss so children nor adults have no time and no place. Is that to hide in the room and, meld on the sofa, to extract yesterday’s Istanbul newspaper.

After dinner, in front of the disco, different shows are held in the open-air amphitheater, concerts with participation "Animators". Some of them sing, dancing, playing guitars and blow in the saxophone quite professional. Probably, these guys, if they wanted, could earn a good money on the venues of Europe.

Adult tourists inspired "Animators", relax mighty: dance, riddles decide and sing chorus – without getting drunk, sober. The situation resembles a decent pioneer camp of stagnant times at the time of the solemn opening of the shift. Only light, scenery, spectator chairs here are richer, more beautiful, and a 24-hour bar nearby, with chilled barrel beer and salted chips.

For ours, it is especially nice that among "Animators" There are several of our compatriots. Under the contract they work here for two or three months and are very inspired by those visitors from Russia, who does not own foreign languages ​​at all. And such B "Letonia" Most, and knowing English to apply him almost no place. Except to chat with a Turkish waitress or a fizruck-German, outstanding tennis rackets.

The reason is simple – the main part of the rest here is the French, as well as the Lebanese with Jordanians. French, naturally, in no language, besides the native, do not want to talk, and the Lebanese and other residents of the Middle East are usually known from foreign languages ​​again one French. Here is the whole day in the area and cries of angry French mothers, addressed to the unreasonable child, climbed into the adult pool: "Pierre! ATANCON! ATANCON!". If everything is in order, then the contented French family is shouting, frightening hotel service: "O-la-la! O-la-la!"

Such a bias to the Gallean vocabulary, however, has its advantages. Our our children who have not reached the school age, talking to the French-One-Year, in two weeks fully master the initial level of someone else’s language. Surprising later relatives by passages like: "Mont Sher, give chocolate, Silvuple!"

What is still a club "Letonia" – So it is your parks and flower beds with exotic flowers. In the little seams at the beach there are such plants that seem to bloom in subtropics should not. And here Ibiscics bloom, some mysterious purple orchids, and most importantly, along the central alley poured with juice and safe banana trees feel safely.

Among their wide leaves, at the top, clusters are noticeable with small lilac bananas. In the advertising prospect of the hotel it is written that bananas in "Letonia" And in general, in these parts, they do not finally mature – they lack the sun. But the familiar Bartender-Turk told me that last year, in September, he secretly thickened the whole three normal banana bunces. His acquaintances were very surprised, and the aunt was welded from bananas jam on some secret recipe.

What exactly matures in this climate – these are oranges. Turkish oranges, as you know, the sweetest. In the bars of the hotel, the juices are squeezed, which are pure or mixed with ice cream, with a liqueur and simply with soda. The hotel was a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice costs a little more than a dollar – one "Yellow". For a week of rest we are flattened by a fair amount of vitamin C for the coming our winter.

Everywhere B "Letonia" Tourist feels a welcome guest. Personnel in bars and restaurants Warning and educated. It is curious that in the hotel Barmeni, waiters, helpers in the kitchen or cleaners work sons and daughters of very wealthy merchants from Istanbul and Izmir. Bartender Yusuf explained to me that it was so accepted in many rich Turkish families: heirs, finishing school, three or four years wash the dishes in restaurants, open the doors in front of hotel guests, the garbage laughes in stores and only watching real employment experience and the reinforcement of money come to the university or start service at the father’s firm with a small management position. Apparently, it benefits both heirs and country.

Floating disco on a coniferous riviera

Houses in Turkish villages, the roads are kept in order, and a Turkish car "Renault", What do in the French license do not immediately distinguish from the original.

From "Letonia" We are leaving at least a day to ride "Rocket" Under the Greek flag on Rhodes Island. Such an excursion for coming on Fethiye ours – traditional. In addition to Rhodes, local travel agencies in Fethiye offer one-two-day cruises to Northern Cyprus, Lebanon or Syria. Prices for similar trips are small – dollars eighty. Visa for maritime traveling to these countries is not needed. But travel agents say that our do not risk riding in exotic corners of the East or Turkey. The French or Germans go to any interesting mini cruises, and it seems – nothing.

Many busy objects can be seen in the vicinity of Fethiye, far from leaving. A cognitive excursion begins on the road itself, after a kilometer from "Letonia". On the turn, with a high cliff, a beautifully visible rusty bellyer of the sea trawler, who blown up a small fill with the barracks of the police department with his body. The shielded yellow nose of the ship sticks out of the water at forty meters from the police station fence. Old-timers say that the trawler overturned and sank seven years ago from a strong fire. The shipowner received insurance and forgot about the ship. And to remove the sunken ship can not be made of shallow water – no floating crane can not be able to approach. There is another version: they say, the custody of the authorities simply decided to save as a local attraction. The benefit of the trawler does not prevent anyone: he lies far from the city and the beaches, and from "Letonia" It separates it extended steep.

A little more time is a trip to Dalyan, where large turtles roam along the rocky seach of the sea – the mountain gorge, along the bottom of which rumbles the icy stormy river. A wooden platform is built along the river in the sacclyt, there are several snacks on it. They prepare Turkish dishes: lamb in all kinds, sharp flour soups, baked eggplants. Low prices, and waiting for the order, you can watch the bold trout, which is trying to jump over smooth slippery boulders and for some reason wants to swim up – against the current. Trout here, no one offends, on the contrary, tourists feed it with bread crumbs.

On the way back from the gorge you need to walk a little walk. Look at the daily life of the Turkish village, to the work of Gonchar-craftsman, the legs of a tangling circle, on the flock of thick goats, which the old woman is driven in black clothes decorated with silver embroidery. On the head, the old woman caught a white wool handkerchief. Heat her nipple, she goes cheerfully and smiles.

Hungry You are again or not, but it is necessary to look at the rural inn – teahouse. Contains such a rustic diner usually a whole family. Chayhana is ten meters from the road, hiding from dust and sun with pyramids of poplars and hazel bushes. At least one mature palm tree palm decorate teahouse.

In the main hall for guests there are no walls. Instead of walls on horizontal crossbars, fastened on four pillars, hang thick patterned carpets. Around the flooring from the orange boards, the Canalchik – Aryk, for which the water from the artesian well is rumped in. In the center of the hall – a fountain or a reservoir with goldfish.

Water and shadow create almost winter coolness in teahouse, which you will find not in every conditioned room. There are no chairs. They are replaced by low sofas, with side rollers stuffed with sheep wool. Based on the rollers with his back, it is convenient to seen away, half off, drinking a rustic green tea from wormwood or sipping cold acidic kums from clay.

Before guests, hosts put wicker baskets with watermelons, melons, oranges. Ceramic plates impose grapes, figs and dates. It’s so to speak. Then there will be kebab, calf side and a lot of all sorts of different. Complete a rustic lunch mug of coffee without sugar. Or tightening from vintage painted hookah. Smoke in it is not at all harmful, but a bitter-sweet, smelling mustache and eucalyptus leaves.

Service in the family diner unpretentious, but attentive. Cash costs are small. Leaving, it is best to say goodbye to the owner of Turkish: "Tezekur Ederrim!" In such a simple way, you will improve his mood for a whole week.

Returning to Fethiye, it is necessary there to wait for the evenings. How dark, on the embankment begins to spill a nightlife. Dance flooring opens with Turkish music. In hotels work nightclubs and cabaret.

Go look at the belly dance or not – the case is private.

Much more fun to swim into the sea on the yacht disco. Foreigners living in Fethch itself prefer to have fun in the evening exactly on such floating dansy. Yacht-disco – bunk: downstairs dance floor in the fresh air with a two-person speaker, at the top of the bar and a buffet. All ship is hung with multi-colored lanterns that flash in the tact with sound rhythm rhythms.

At midnight, the sea near Fethiye sparkles, flickers, buzzing dance music, noise with fun. Someone straight with the feed poured into black water, loudly rejoicing the night bathing. Such actions The Yacht team does not approve, but just in case there are rescue vests on the participants of the floating disco.

Gam, singing and music subside for hours at five in the morning, when the last boat approaches the shore and tired guests will differ on hotels.

Tourists are allowed almost all except explicit attempts on the principles of Islam. About foreigners the authorities take care of how about children. Wherever they appear and walk, there is a police. Official explanation – Prevention of terrorism. They say that five years ago, near Fethiye, Greek terrorists landed on inflatable boats. They kind of planned to blow up a bomb to draw attention to some controversial lands. Interestingly, the same thing is told about the Turkish terrorists of the Greeks on the islands Southern Spys.

Tourists such rumors, as a rule, do not particularly worry. However, the power of the danger of terrorism does not disregard. Upon returning to Dalaman Airport before the security booth, our bus stops, and a harsh policeman with a machine gun looked into the salon. He checks: if it was not hidden where what kind of enemy? Seeing that everything is in order, smiles in the whole mouth and, having failed his palm, wishes to all the best way. But a taxi with one driver who kicked for us, not allowed to the airport – there is no special pass on the windshield. Taxi driver police scold and make turn back. The chauffeur’s chauffeur splashes his hands, justifies, and heads in search of customers to the city bazaar.

. Disintegrating on the runway, our IL-62 gains height. After takeoff, the people get to the portholes to look at the sea, filled with lambs of waves and on a rocky island, where, visible, the wind threw pine seeds. Someday Little pines growing there will become the same big as trees that cover the endangered little on the pink haze coastal hills.

Near the lonely cliff this time, the anchor of a two-candy yacht was abandoned with rolled sails. The yacht from the nose to the stern is carried by garlands. Even from the board of the aircraft noticeably, how glitters sunlight on glass light bulbs. "Disco Zaguulla", – Passengers think and, more comfortable in the chairs, begin to borrow.

Floating disco on a coniferous riviera

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