Fish on "Grivennik"
In the sense that when exchanging at the airport of $ 50, I was given less than twenty lire, and five lira in the form of the sadstone of the nickel coins. The little thing is always cunning – once or two and wept on nonsense. So I immediately began to study coins. On "Dear" Lingerie, Advancets and Fourth Fourtes, Maltese launched a chucky bushes and flowers – inside such, so that it was not sorry to give. But on one-charged one, followed by nobody, they portrayed a stone cunita, on a two-price vehicle – the Oliver branch, on a five-price drive – a crab, and on "Grivennik" – Fish with predatory muzzle.
"What kind of fish?" – I asked the name, but he answered stupid: "Yes, this is a fish", – Tired, probably from the little things. The guide that meets our group also did not have the concept – just a fish and everything here, on a five-price station just crab, and on "Grivennik" Just fish. And at the hotel, the manager looked at the coin, as if she saw the first time, and advised the next day to go to Marsachlock, there just on Sundays the fish market.
Marsashlock – Fisherman’s village on the east coast. The name is ancient: "Mars" in Phoenician means "bay". The same root of the French port of Marseille and there are still a lot of names throughout the Mediterranean, because the Phoenicians at the time of Homer were the best navigators. After the time of Homer, they died out, but the current Maltese people consider themselves their descendants.
So, the next morning I got out of the hotel and got to the bus. Yellow Maltese buses – the best means of movement on the island. Entered, gave 15 cents to the driver and shaking himself on turns. The door is not closed, yes, in fact, there are no doors, only the doorway, but the breeze blows up, in the heat is nice.
Treasure and deep bomb
Fort Manuel drove on the island in the bay between Sliem and Valletta. At the end of last year, news agencies reported: Maltese gathered to sell the Fort to a foreign consortium, so that the lira for the restoration of the ruins themselves. The sensation was that the soldiers with minion currency were caught in the fort and they try to find the treasures of the Maltese Order in urgency. Reported that all roads to the fort are blocked, journalists are not allowed even on special degree – in short, everything is mysterious and seriously.
Believing newspapers and guides, I got out of the bus in Slim and moved along the bridge on the island, intending to find out to what space still let go, and where are you starting to wrap. For about ten minutes I walked past yacht clubs. According to all the same agencies, somewhere here in the year before last year, the ghost of the Great Master Manuel de Vilen scared four yachtsmen friends.
It is known that the ghost will not be afraid of neither. Therefore, spiritual persons from the management of historical monuments opened the door of the chapel, where Manuel was buried, and saw that the heads penetrated through the subcoptee and disturbed the dust. The chapel was put in order and just in case there were a testament. It turned out that Manuel posthumously left the soul to the pocket exactly so much gold that at the prices of the XVIII century would have been enough for 1000 years. Purchase gold, of course, still Napoleon kkarmanil, but the spiritual persons still ordered the service in the Cathedral of St. John.
I do not know how about the ghost, but about the treasures journalists petrated, as it can usually: where is the treasure – there is a lies. At the entrance to the fort I greeted the guard with a dog, but he did not answer, left. Only then I understood – where. The soldier with the minewanders was not, but the Wall of Breasts were airbones, rusted shells, anti-tank mines and a pushed deep bomb.
Soon the police car arrived. That’s where the watchman went – knocking! West is the West, just not so, it is ruthlessly prettier. Policemen stopped near me and went out as if smoke. Immediately demand documents and ask how frightening a man will turn in Fort Manuel, not accepted in Malta: human rights, if anyone else has not understood. Yes, the local police acts resolutely and incorruptible – on the road, even for a small disorder, it is immediately fined at 45-80 lire and, in addition, cause a court; And in prison, 123 people are sitting in the prison, of which 90 are foreigners. But if there is no violation – the police are so smoked.
I first decided to speak, asked in a simple way: "And treasures where?" I have no English – it does not happen worse, but it’s easy to talk in Malta. Here are not the states and the more not England, where they like to make fun of pronunciation and constantly pretend that they did not understand.
In Malta, everyone speaks clearly and without anyway, as our school teachers. In a word, the policemen understood me and willingly supported the conversation, they said that the treasures probably buried somewhere, but not Manuel. Yes, and the soldiers were looking for no treasure, and the ammunition of the second world, after all, it is impolite to ignitely selling forts together with rusty deep bombs.
And what kind of fish on a coin, the police also did not know.
Malta more than 200 hotels and new construction sites everywhere. Many luxury hotels – for example, not fully completed "Hilton" claims to be the best in southern Europe. Very high quality Westin Dragonara and Corinthia.
In Malta, the concept of tourist "Villages". There is a big difference between the hotel two stars and "Village" two stars. V "Village" Always large territory, sports grounds, swimming pools, clubs. And in a two-three-star hotel there is nothing worthwhile.
Our tourists adapt to: remove the apartments, rent a car with air conditioning – and drive to the lured shore. Especially popular apartments in the villages of Gozo Island. Sometimes hotels are located far from the sea, and the prices are the same as on the coast. This is for the British. They bathe in pools with sea water, and to the sea go to listen to surf.
There are no air conditioners in the apartments, two-three-star hotels and tourist villages.
In Malta, there are no beaches in the usual understanding of this word. It is usually just a dotted by the sea of a limestone plate, with which an iron ladder goes into the water. Summer is so hot that they do not lie on the shore: ran out of shelter, descended on the ladder – and into the water. Therefore, it makes no sense to pay for an umbrella and a chaise longue (1.5-2 lines a day), and entrance to any beach, except for club, free.
Maltese people do not like sand, he is small here, lumber. If all bathing – plunged and got out, then the sand is only a hindrance. But Maltese people claim that they can be bought everywhere on the island. In fact, do not bathe only in ports, on the parking lots of yachts, in fjord deadlocks. To the swimming season, ladies appear everywhere; Even at the exit from the port bay of Valletta, along which boats and ferries will join there, people swim. The fact is that Malta is in the middle of the Mediterranean, the island is open to all currents, and polluted waters are quickly washed out.
Summer sea is almost always calm, but even with weak excitement with stones, you do not swim. For such cases, coastal pools are provided. Along the coast, modern concrete pools are drawn and the Romans are cut down the stone Lohani. Lovers find on the wild coast (especially on the island of Gozo) deep stone bowls – and once I try, only go there.
The bus rose to the slide, and the fortress walls of Valletta, the capital of the island rose ahead. La Valletta it is called only foreigners. Locals believe that the noble particle in the French name will only be knitted in the language, but no sense adds. The name of the founder of the city of the Great Master of La Valletta was once widely known, because he broke the troops of the invincible Turkish Sultan Suleiman magnificent. It is expressed that since then one of the playing cards is called in honor of the Grand Master – "Valet". You ask, and Tuz Bubey then who is Suleiman, or what?
Many tourists, however, are leaving, without ravaging where the capital is located. Many consider Valletta to the Saint-Julians town of Saint-Julians, Slise, Mzido, Florian, Peit. Same houses, cathedrals, narrow streets, rugged shores.
And yet Valletta is a special city. The bus leaves on a round area in front of the city gate. Ride in Maltese buses simply, they all come to the gate of Valletta.
From the gate by direct ray to the sea goes street. The capital is built immediately, on the empty caulation and by plan. Streets are straight and laid descending on the descent and lifts. Where the rise is cool, – fifty steps or bridge. According to the legend, the steps are made by sliding and width of ten centimeters, so that the knights calated in the lats could quietly print their railway. In fact, the steps are different and shows not always.
In Malta, build from dasane light yellow limestone. There are no forests, the gardens are not enough, the grass quickly burns out, the pests are covered with thick dust. In the summer, the Maltese world could be homogeneous light yellow. Cathedrals, forts, houses could merge with the ground. If they were not loved by islanders Flag with bright red cross and bright yellow buses. Flags and buses a lot. And the sun breaks through the azure sea for twenty meters deep.
Valletta can wander longer. Touch the head at home-fortresses, sniff the dust in the Casa Rocca Piccola home museum, go out onto the sea wind, to watch the bay busy and the jams of Sluma and Burg’s houses, and then in the Fort of St. Elma, relax in the shade, while the dressy view goes with knights.
Presentation Scenario Nomuddy – Morning View. Officers check appearance, weapons – alabards, arkebuses, guns. Then chase knights on the rain. After forty minutes, the action begins to stop – again appearance, roll call, working out the peak, shot from gun, team, report.
Everything "knights" – Unprofessional actors. Maltese people are famous not only by cunning, but also with an irrepressive desire to earn. At the beginning of the adult life, they are gaining loans, and then try to return them. Salaries are not very big, life is expensive, you have to work on four or five jobs. There is not a single state-owned enterprise in Malta, so there is an opportunity to negotiate with the owner, twist, see, crush working hours. The owner will enter the position, because he himself after work takes over the alabard.
. Knights-tickets at the entrance to the Fort of St. Elma also did not recognize the fish. So, without a trip to the Marsachlock can not do.
The surname of the chauffeur was indicated on the plate: I got a speaker in the Marsachlock. This is a surname common on the island, and the following legend is attached to it.
Knights of the Maltese Order are otherwise called hospitallers, they not only went to the Crusades and fought with the Turks, but also treated the suffering in their hospitals. The knights connected by the vow are not kept and seduced by the islanders, those attributed to the nearest children in the nearest hospital, where a small window was joined in the wall – the same as in our exchange offices. Put the sinner of the child in the bodied, from the inside they pulled out – and complete anonymity. And the child was brought up with the hospital and the surname, they gave a speaker, that is, hospital.
The surname chauffeur decided to make money on me and from two lire was not the delivery of forty cents. Accounting – Frequent phenomenon on the island. In Valletta, the place of intersection of a merchant street (Merchant) and St. John are called a shameful angle – in the old days there is a three-meter stone pillar. Sits of all kinds "Kidal". But now the authorities are afraid of sketches and do not want to plant it on the pillar. He is a private law, can raise prices or arrange a strike. And on a taxi on the island you will leave. Where the spectrum is 15 cents, there is a taxi driver 10 lir. And where they got a taxi you can’t catch, you need to call out of the hotel or cafe, because the raised hand in Malta means that you are going to move the street, the cars stop, they miss, but they don’t want to carry.
I’m interested in a neighbor, whether the Marsachlock. She immediately begins to smile. This is one of the features of Maltesers – they are very friendly; But evil languages argue that their friendliness ends on the threshold of their own house. An ordinary tourist notices only hospitality, cheerfulness and readiness to selflessly serve. And what else is needed by the usual tourist?
Neighbor-old woman is baptized at the noteworthy statue of the Virgin Mary, then another, on the crucifixion of the cathedral. People in Malta Religious, Calm, Nevy. The average life expectancy in women is 86 years old, men – 79, and this despite the summer heat. Why live here for so long? Mystery. In Japan, long life is explained by abundant eating fish, but in Malta, the fish is dear, Maltese eating pasta, ordinary vegetables, a lot of bread, beef, european rubbed soup, salad, sheep cheese, small Italian dumplings – Tortellini, very rarely rabbit. Fried garlic octopus or saber fish at coal – for tourists.
Neighbor-old woman said that the fish on a coin is a lamp.
Volochok Phoenician boats
Here and the Marsachlock – the bay, densely covered with fishing boats. Maltese boats bright, multicolored and with an eye on a ride nose. It is believed in the fog, a multicolored boat herself will find the road to the shore, and the eye will scare the sirens, pirates and save the envy of ill-wishers. Such eyes were at the boats Odyssey and Jazon. Yes, and the boats themselves have changed from those times, and this is not a tourist attraction. Just here they believe that in three thousand years people did not come up with anything better. Civilization for Maltese fishermen is gasoline and motor, not a form of boat. In the old days, the path on Villagers to Sicily held 18 hours, now on the motor – hour and a half. And the boats are the same.
I’m leaving from the sun, hiding under the sheds of the fish market. There are many people, but not noisy, Maltese do not like to bargain. From the bottle of honey brother, the seller threw 25 cents, but in a jewelry store for a silver thing to give a discount flatly refused. The craft tourist is surprised: like, Tunisia is near, the language of Maltese belongs to the Semitic group, in it up to 60 percent of Arab words. And on the form of Maltese obvious Arabs. But after all – do not trade.
Hot. I buy a bottle of Kinnie and go along fish rows. Kinnie – a good choice in the heat, this is a local species "Baikal", Also no chemistry, pepsin teeth are not loose, and the taste is pleasant – herbs, bitter juice orange.
Skalfish, Sabli, Stavrids, Sultan Ibragima, Sharlas, Morayna, Barracuda, Kalmara, Caracatians, Octopuses, Mussels, Moracatites, Mussels, Murdes. I stop near the tanned merchant in orange apron, showing a coin. Fisherman name is Carmel Atsopard. Also common name and surname, they are approximately the fifth of all Maltese. Atsopardi-fisherman laughs and mumblers, that not the season now, there is no lamp. Lampuk gone, deeply left, now they do not catch it until September. But if you still go to catch now, then you need to pick up away from the coast and to store a piece of sea with an opaque film. Lampuky love shadow and gather under the film, then they are easy to catch.
Alscopard said that the lamp is predatory, large, length up to one and a half meters, weighing up to twenty kilograms. And why the lamp fell on "Grivennik", Atsopard could not say. Fish, of course, tasty, but personally, the hello himself prefers fish in black, on the site of bankers he would be mobile on "Grivennik" Celebrate. And a bottle of red wine, of course, because without wine of the hello, fish does not eat.
Each people have their own lambids
From Marsachlok I went to the diving club. If the fish deeply gone, you need to go to the diving club.
In the diving club DiveWise Dive-Master Englishman said that the lamp does not know, but the fish on a coin is great reminds him of mahi mahs. I looked at the coin so many times, which encoded: Fish me and it seems to be familiar. That is exactly what I once caught near Phuket – a gold mackerel weighing 12 kilograms – and after fishing gave Skiper Thainta. Thais love the gold mackerel. Maybe this Mahi-Mahi – Gold Mackerel?
Diva Masters came up. Henrietta from Germany said that on a coin – Dolphin fish. There is such that I ate her on Jamaica. Fish delicious, meat white, tight, bones little. But the dolphin fish is a dorado – "Golden", This is her Spanish name. And Dorado is a corneteen, a famous fish of all the warm seas. She is a beauty – a golden body, bright green fins, a tail with a blue sampling and a face predatory, strict like a bulldog.
Real sailors respect her not for beauty. It happens, thanks to Corryon, victims shipwreck survive. She greedily pecks on any rubbish – on a shiny brass buttons (in ancient) or pieces of foil (now) – and habit accompany the boats and rescue rafts – loves shadow. Stop! Another shadow lover? Maybe Corryryne – Lamp?
Together with the dive masters, we came to the usual in the dive clubs a poster with local fish. And it turned out that the Maltese lamp, Jamaician fish-dolphin, German and Thai gold mackerel, Spanish Dorado, our-Latin Corrynene, English Mahi-Mahi, Japanese Shira – this is the same fish! It turns out, Maltese places placed one of the most beautiful and healthy marine fish on a 10-cent coin. It is working everywhere, all eating it and praise, but only Maltese people guessed to glorify it as a national heritage.